R6 Painless Front Wheel Change

Or buy pre-drilled titanium bolts.

 

Sure or buy 15 bucks worth of drill bits and fror what its worth what does 4 Ti pre drilled bolts cost?

 

Or, Whats an extra $70 on a $26k RSV4 Factory Limited Edition ?

trust me, ive drilled plenty of bolts since ‘94. But since i started rocking RSV4’s in ‘17, i buy pre drilled bolts.

 

Besides, you can never have enough titanium. Using them is way faster than even rim tape.

 

Pre drilled bolts are the way to go...and this is from a R6 owner. lol!

My logic: I use the bolts for X amount of years/seasons...they're super clean, more options for safety wiring...and I keep the stock bolts. If I sell the bike? Put stock ones back on and sell it. If the old bolts won't work with my new bike? Sell them for $5-10 cheaper than they are new. So I got to use the bolts for however many seasons for $5-10...no brainer.

 

Yeah, yeah, yeah, bark, bark, bark, and you guys buy all that titanium then bitch about tires prices

 

Those R6 caliper bolts were prob the hardest material I've ever drilled for wire.

If you race with a club that doesn't allow clips, you just get really good/fast at wiring things. With how long front tires last, it's a once or twice a day process which really isn't that bad. You should also remember to finish front tire swaps during low-stress times of the day, like at the end of the prev day.

An electric ratchet is another good way to save time on front tire changes.

 

Not to hijack the thread but I see spacers there. I run those calipers on my k8 600 at your suggestion (and love them) but I don't run a spacer. Is there a reason why you do?

 

Admin, can we kick this guy for hijacking the thread. smh

 

Damn, fucking brutal brother. Figured it was cool since you already had your answer. Wait until the LaCrosse guys get a hold of this thread.

 

the spacers are for when you run bigger diameter rotors.

 

I go to the track by myself alot, and even when I don't I am really not comfortable with other people changing my front wheel- I've seen it all.

Quick change setups aren't cheap, but they really make it tremendously easy, and IMO safer. You don't even have to buy the fancy axle, you can still use the existing axle and pinch bolts, but the proper setup of caliper and fender bracket is great to have. Bevel the pads with a file and magnets epoxied into the pistons to hold the pads in place is really nice too.

 

This. After two R6 endurance bikes. This is the best way.

 

The quick change setup makes it idiot proof honestly. There's very little opportunity to mess something up. Like on the the rear wheel. Having the magnets in the caliper to pull the pads back is a life saver after about the third time you jammed the wheel in there with the pads near touching. Did I mention that rim his hot AF too