Is there an adjustment for the clutchless-clutch on a PW50. I am trying to get one running for someone,and once it does actually start,it barely goes. And im not riding it,my 9 year old daughter is the tester,and without any incline it pulls real slow/almost not.Ive tried doing a search,but im not joining an atv group to ask,and you cannot search their sites without joining.
There isn't a clutch adjustment but it's possible the restrictor plate was never removed from the exhaust. It's basically just a washer between the cylinder and pipe. The PWs came from the factory with them but the bike would barely pull if you left them in, we had to remove them or they wouldn't even pull a grown man on flat ground. Much less have any decent races between mechanics.
I just came back in from the garage....no washer thingy between the cylinder and pipe.the damn things ticking me off,as it takes 100 kicks to start What does the restrictor in carb consist of? Its got strong spark and a new plug,and this bastard just wont start,or if it does wont stay running without full throttle. i guess i am just going to have to go through the entire fuel system before i throw it in front of a truck.Ive already given it a good carb soaking/cleaning,but will start fresh tomorrow and see what the deal is.......
High speed jet could be clogged. Those carbs are sensitive to cheap gas especially if its been sitting for any length of time. Try pulling the air box blast some carb cleaner with the throttle open. Yes, its a cheaters way but it works. No help on the clutch, sorry. Try pwonly.com - their # is on the website. The guy knows those bike.
And this will accomplish what?? Sure as hell wont have any affect on the carb...might screw up the cylinder wall though
I'm with Pj on this one. Start with a thorough carb cleaning. I bought a used ttr90 on Craigslist that had a similar problem. Good carb cleaning and proper maintenance has had it running like a top for me for years.
I agree...a good carb cleaning will probably make a big difference...but that does not entail spraying shit down the carb while the motor is running.....
Its to see if fuel is an issue. Don't understand how spraying a little carb cleaner into an engine cylinder is going to hurt anything unless its two stroke. Propane works well too.
Yes,about the start/run switch. And carb cleaning was the first thing i did when it was brought to me a month ago.musta just missed something,but will give'er another going over in the morning.
There is no restrictor in the carb. Just the exhaust and a screw on the throttle. Sometimes the start/run switch will malfunction which will cause hard starting.
Didn't say when motor was running... Sold my sons pw50 last week, had it 4 years. Pulled the top end off prior to selling - cylinder was clean and smooth. Those motors are bulletproof. Just my experience.
Not knowing what year it was, some of the early PWs had a small piece in the carb to limit the throttle opening...along with the exhaust washer and throttle screw.
Also with time the exhaust port can carbon up big time...nothing a little EZOff oven cleaner can't fix. The autolube is way to rich at anything above idle...plug it off and premix...or just mix a 20:1 mixture and add to the oil tank. The start/run switch RARELY fails...it can be bypassed to eliminate the rev limiter though Anything else you want to know about PW50s???? Like how to make one do 55mph?
Not sure if this happens with PW50's, but I bought an old Honda scooter that was having trouble running, I cleaned the carb, but still had the same result. Ran into an experienced mechanic and he said the pipes on those sometimes get filled with crud. He told me to take the pipe off and heat the outside with a propane torch until all the oil burned out from the inside of the pipe. It smoked like crazy, burning that stuff out, but that fixed my problem. A little barbecue grill paint on the pipe, and it looked fine again.
I had the same issue with an older PW80. The oil pump works every time the engine turns over, so when the bike doesn't start oil and gas continues to pump into the engine. The pipe ended up with about 8 ounces of oil in the pipe (after years of trying to start it, I think). Once I poured out the oil and smoked the pipe clean, it fired right up. However, I torched from the pipe neck and burned the crud from the inside. Once it reaches flash temperature it is self-perpetuating on the burn and smokes quite nicely. You can watch the flame move through the expansion chamber by the coloring on the outside. Try dumping out the pipe, then torching like Rob suggested (my method leaves a bit to be desired). Then disconnect the oil pump like Tryce suggested and run it on premix. I want to know how to go 55 MPH on a PW50. I know about the hidden second gear, but other tips are appreciated. Speaking of the kill switch, does it contain a rev limiter or something? Any other tips you can provide on a public forum?
Is there a case gasket on the pw50? I know on some 2 strokes the case can leak air and cause hard starting and also engine failure.
I got a new stock pw50 exhaust if you want it. Also, has it got any compression. May be so worn out, that it won't start/make any power. Lots of little things to check these guys have already mentioned. Start/run switch. Clean carb well. Check oil injector. Clean oil reservoir and fill with fresh Yamalube. Yeah, these little bikes are terrific and are pretty much bullet proof, but you can't abuse them forever with no maintenance.