Just put on new front and rear brakes on my non-abs '00 Tundra. Front: calipers, pads, rotors. Rear: drums, shoes, wheel cylinders, bell cranks. I put in new fluid, used my mityvac to bleed, everything seems pretty good. Getting solid fluid. Except for the rear passenger wheel, still getting some bubbles. Ditch the mityvac and I go to the pump and bleed method, wife on the pedal, me bleeding. Again, nice sold flow all around, except rear passenger. Try gravity bleeding that wheel, no bubbles seem to come out. I start the truck, depress brake, pedal goes to the floor. Truck has a brake booster, so there is resisitance when truck is off, but as soon as truck is started, no resistance on pedal. I can get pressure if I pump the pedal quickly several times, but as soon as I stop pumping, straight to the floor. I'm suspecting something is up with the rear. I adjusted the parking brake cable, the bell cranks, space between the shoe and drum, checked for leaks, I'm freaking out! I don't know what to do at this point. Questions: 1. Can something mis-aligned on the rear brakes cause this? 2. Can I try pressing the brake pedal with the drum off just to see what is going on? I'd like to know if that wheel cylinder is working and if the shoes move. 3. I don't suspect the master cylinder got messed up in the process, I never completely emptied it, and I never let the pedal go ALL the way to the floor. 4. Can a few bubbles on one wheel cause the pedal to have no resistance and go to the floor? Any ideas would be appreciated. Here are the directions for what I did: http://www.tundrasolutions.com/foru...-toyota-truck-park-brake-bellcrank-repair.pdf http://www.tundrasolutions.com/foru...torial-rear-brake-shoe-replacement-tundra.pdf Thanks.
1.) Did you adjust your shoe to drum clearance correctly? I do this by using a caliper or simply by feel. Adjust out until you can fit the drum on, and then back in until the drum barely fits. This assumes you dont have a ridge at the edge of your drum. If you still have bubbles in the line, this is not your issue. See #4 below! 2.) Yes, you can do this as long as someone is watching to make sure the pistons do not get pushed out further than they should. One wheel at a time. 3.) I would bet that your m/c is fine 4.) Absolutely. The passenger rear is the farthest from the m/c, and is typically the hardest to bleed completely. I suspect that you still have some air in the rear brakes. My favorite method of bleeding brakes is simply gravity bleed. Crack the bleeder open, take the cap off the m/c, and let it drip until it appears to come out of the bleeder clear without bubbles. You should alway bleed at the farthest point from the m/c so start at RR, then LR, RF, LF.
I have an 06 tundra limited 4 door and never had an issue, i gravity bleed starting with the farthest from the M/C and do one at a time, i also compress the piston withOUT cracking the bleeder to prevent air from getting in.
1. No. 2. Just spin the wheel and hit the brake pedal. You remove that drum, the whole guts will come out, oil the brakes. 3. You release = It sucks air in the lines. And it goes where?* 4. Nope. That is a big time M/C bench bleed [on car]. One more time:* 1. Break both lines at the M/C. Have her press down and hold it down. 2. Keep bleeding the M/C till no air is present. 3. If you get a pedal this time, Bleed reads: A. Bleed farthest brake from M/C. B. Wind up at the last caliper bleed near rest the M/C, take a rest. C. Press Now. D.o You have a pedal now, BumpeReserves?
I was just out there trying again. I took the drum off so I could see what's going on. The cylinders are working fine. I dumped an entire small bottle of brake fluid thru that rear cylinder, and I'm still getting bubbles. Wife pumps the pedal, holds it in. When I crack the bleeder nipple, solid fluid comes out at first, but as the cylinder looses pressure and the shoes start going back in, bubbles start coming out, lots of them. I'm wondering if that nipple is a problem. Because when I crack it, fluid will leak out from the threads. I tried the other rear, and getting the same problem, but less bubbles. The fronts seem fine, no sign of bubbles. But those are calipers, while the rears are new cylinders I just installed. Maybe they are shitting cylinders with shitty nipples? When the truck is off, there is good pressure at the pedal and the pistons on the wheel cylinder work fine, but when the truck is running and no pressure at the pedal, the wheel cylinders only slightly move as the pedal is pushed.
I dont think the z fitting is the issue, a couple things come to mind 1) if you crack the fitting while she is pumping, or she slipps off, ti will suck air in 2) if it was loose when you removed the breaks air will seep in 3) even alittle air trapped will travel up the line and take forever to get out. also it might be a good idea to have a third person at the M/C making sure it NEVER goes below minimum or your fighting yourself. ( from you stating that the other rear was fin but now has a little air, might confirm that the M/C went too low.
To find damaged threads/nipples, you would have to push the pedal down and that nipple should push fluid out [closed]. For every/action/reaction occurs. Push/Fluid Out -Pull/Air back in. Take a plastic drinking container. Shove the hose [off the nipple] down that dry bottle. The old lady starts pumping, that hose should be deep in fluid. When it sucks back up, it should suck fluid. Close down the thread gap so no air sucks but fluid fluid moving back up/fluid out when you push the pedal down. You balls are hanging on the firewall because you are reaching over to refill the M/C, you have yet to close that nipple. The old lady is pumping that brake and she wishes your head was between it, keep her out dare all day' 3 Minutes and the deal is done, what are you doing? OPenipple/Purge/Close'm up = 2 Steps. No shit.. Mityvac is for female nipple's, Milk of Extraction, and an optional male, penis enlargement attachment for your viewing pleasure. Home me don't need, nor use the mighty vac you us.
I've never seen the cylinder on a Tundra but is it possible to put it in upside down, I've seen some where the bleed screw can be placed at the bottom of the cylinder and then they're impossible to bleed. Just a shot in the dark but the bleed screw has to be at the highest point.
Early this year I helped a car mech bleed a clutch on a Ford truck. He had me pump the shit out of the pedal 25 times and hold it before he turned the bleeder. Worked great,so applied it to bleeding brakes on cars and bikes. Haven't used the mighty vac or the power bleeder since. He said that when you pump it like that it makes the bubbles move.
Thanks for the suggestions, I'm still fighting this problem. Replaced the wheel cylinders with new ones, still can't bleed. My truck is on a slight (5%?) incline in my driveway, front is higher than rear. I'm thinking this may be the problem. If there is air in the line, it might keep floating upstream as I try to bleed. But since I have no brakes, it's hard to move my truck right now. I may try jacking up the back to see what happens. Totally freaking me out, never had a problem like this, been trying to bleed it for a week. Luckily the weather has been nice and I've been able to take my bike everywhere. Also, spoke to a brake guy today, he said don't do the pump and bleed method. He said if there is an air pocket, pumping the brake will just make it mix into the fluid more. He suggested just gravity bleeding. But I'll try pumping it 25 times for the hell of it. It's just nuts that I have no pedal at all when the truck is running. I would think if there is some air in the lines, I'd have 'some' pedal, but I got nothing. I do have pressure with the truck off, but once that booster kicks in, nothing.
Pop the M/C off and bleed it minus 5°; you can load the line or tilt the M/C so the bubbles hit the out fittings. Can't be the calipers if they are new again! Just gotta figure out how to push the plunger or use two people = One to hole, the other to push the plunger, close/purge the fitting. If it were me, I'd pull the M/C off and bench bleed it. Get the plastic kit to keep the hoses loop'd in the res, so you can take each plastic fitting off the M/C and keep bleeding air from there.
