Powernews' Motoman: Break in Secrets-Bogus? Or Genius?

I ran across this, and thought I'd start a month long debate/pissing match. Also, thought there might even be a post or two with some valuable insight...maybe. I'll call this interesting, at the least. For some reason though, I get the feeling this is like the argument that we never really walked on the moon.

Lots of stretched evidence? Or sound advice?

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

 

wow, 62% subscribe to breaking it in fast, eh? No comments with that?

 

depends on street use or race use.... big difference in breakin process....

 

Huh? Hmmm... there's a difference? Why?


I bought a brand new 03' Mille R, put it in the trailer, and went right to the track. When I pulled it out of the trailer at the track, it had 1 mile on it, literally. This was a test ride mile by the dealer.

This is what I did:

HEAT CYCLE !!!!

Every time before a session, I would let the motor get up to full normal operating temp. For the first 100 miles I would shift at no higher than 6k RPM. After the sessions, I would come in, shut off the bike, and let it cool off. Then, I would start it back up prior to a session, and let it heat back up all the way to normal temps. Lot's of engine braking.

After the first 100 miles, I would increase max RPM to 8k. I did this all the way to 400 miles. Same as above, heat cycles, and lots of engine braking.

After the 400 miles, I then increased the engine RPM to 10K. Same thing, heat cycles. So, 600 miles of track time, consistant changes in engine RPM. LOT'S OF ENGINE BRAKING on the track.

Time to ride it like I stole it. It now has 760 track miles, and 3 street miles.

Took it to the dealer about a week ago, got the first service done. Put synthetic oil in her. Runs like a raped ape. Dealer said this is the smoothest running Mille R he has ever seen.

 

I've used a very similar method for the past 15 years and never had a single problem. My bikes always run fast and I've never had any breakin related problems. The only exception is in regards to heat cycles. I agree that the heat cycles aren't so important w/ most motors, BUT: If your putting a 2 stroke together w/ Wiseco or any other forged piston, a minimum of three heat cycles, w/ NO LOAD (idle only) on the motor is mandatory as the pistons do swell the first couple times that they get hot. If you put a load on the motor when it's first run, the swelling of the pistons can cause unwanted heat due to friction, which will be compounded by the heavy load. I used to bake my pistons in the oven to cut down on the swelling, but now forgoe that step (the cookies taste better too! ) and just make sure to have the 3 easy heat cycles. After that, I do everything the same. If I have a new motor, I get my heat cycles(if needed) done before I arrive at the track. My first practice is my break in. The main thing I focus on is getting varying rpms, avoid prolonged wfo (only short, 2 or 3 gear bursts), and after any wfo running, I forgoe the brakes and use engine braking to slow down. Engine braking is very benificial to a new motor. My first lap will always be easy, but after that I start using small amounts of wfo here and there to move the brekin process along. If there's a long straight, the first 2 times I go down it I'll look behind me for traffic and roll off 2 or three times, (On or Off, no partial throttle) to keep heat buid up down. After my first practice, it's ready to rip!!

 

2 Strokes have engine braking Doesn't the mouse trip inside the motor

 

They make you learn to use the brakes, no jake brake like those Diesels...

 

No power like them either Us slow guys need something to keep up with them damn 250's

 

This article was talking only about 4 strokes. I didn't want to see the blue smokers die, but they are going that way.

What say you about 4 strokes?

Sounds like keeping a load on the engine is more important than whether you rev the snot outta it or not. Can somone comment on WHY they want to keep a load on it?

 

for street use you want maximum longevity, race, you want power.
When the motors are put together, the tolerances will be different for a race motor that you are just going to flog the snot of right after she is bolted in(looser tolerences,more engine wear on bearings and rings but you can flog away) and for the street, the by the book breakin will allow the motor to gradually breakin the rings etc etc.... that is why there is a difference in breakin procedures....mainly how long you motor will live....

 

I'd do the same for a 4 stroke, minus the heat cycles, and spread over 2 sessions instead of one. Though I think factory recommended break in procedures for new bikes are silly, I would spend a little more time breaking in a brand new bike. Still, I would make sure to get a decent load on the motor from the very begining of the break in process. The whole point of getting a load on early is to get pressure on the rings to make them seat while there's still honed material left inside the cyl. The honed surface will wear down at the same rate, regardless of how hard or easy your riding it. If you spend your first 600 miles, babying your motor, when you finally do get on it hard, there won't be any honed surface to help the rings seat. This will reduce performance, (albeit, mildly) increase oil consumption, blow by etc and lead to an early failure.
Not talking about getting on a brand new motor and riding it like you stole it. You DO need to vary the rpms, and make initial loads very brief, but riding around for 6 or 7 hundred miles keeping the rpm's below 6K isn't going to break your motor in properly.

 

wow, we've got about 2/3's still voting this guy is right on. I'm really surprised. I thought it would be opposite.

What everyone is saying makes sense. Think this will hold true for cars?

 

anyone? Cars be the same? Can't think why they wouldn't.