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paint guns

Discussion in 'General' started by Jason Coleman, Jan 9, 2002.

  1. Jason Coleman

    Jason Coleman Well-Known Member

    Does anyone have any recommendations? I spray painted the skins for last season, but I have a compressor that is begging to be used and I wouldn't mind another reason to go to Sears. I have seen a couple of paint guns there for $80 or so. Oh yeah, what kind of paint should I use? Is it even worth the trouble? Thanks.
     
  2. SpongeBob WeaselPants

    SpongeBob WeaselPants Bohemian Ass-Clown

    I thought this ws about paint BALL guns. You know, we could mount them on the tail section and aim for the guy about to pass you. [​IMG]
     
  3. jpmarm

    jpmarm Justin Marm

    I use a high volume low pressure HVLP gun from PEP boys, it cost about $100. Works great. Best paint is base coat clear coat Acrylic Urethane. You need to get it from a body shop/paint shop supplier. It'll cost you around $200 or so for everything you'll need to get the job done. You can do it cheaper with single stage enamel, but it wont look as good and isn't as durable or flexible.
     
  4. Paige II

    Paige II Well-Known Member

    My husband used regular spray cans of paint to paint our bodywork. Check it out at www.robeysracing.com. It looks awesome.

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    Pit Queen
    www.robeysracing.com
     
  5. gpracer15

    gpracer15 Built to Ride

    I got tired of farming out my paint jobs only to recieve orange peel and runs so I bought a compressor and a Sears Craftsman touch up gun. The gun holds a pint and was $50. I now use HVLP gravity fed but if your just starting get a basic gravity fed gun. The HVLP guns are harder to control the clear from orange peeling. In other words its a finer line between good and bad than the reglar gravity fed gun. Go to an Automotive paint store and get the gun, mine was $89. Base clear is the best way to go all around. Spraying colors (bases) are a piece of cake, the clear is where you either make it or ruin it! Be glad to help in anyway I can. Painting is really simple its the body work and prep that takes time and skill.

    I use Dupont Chroma Base, Napa has a real cheap line of base clears but for the overall appearance Dupont is better. PPG and Diamont are better but expensive.

    $200 is a good ballpark for paint, hardners, and reducers.
    Chuck D
     
  6. sportbikepete

    sportbikepete Well-Known Member

    My Snap On spray gun is a work horse.

    ------------------
    97 GSXR 750
     
  7. roy826ex

    roy826ex Been around here a while

    I just may take up painting in the near future (after my 1st crash) since my painter has had my glass for 2 weeks & keeps putting me off everyday. I'm sick & tired of his azz!! [​IMG] Not to mention he is charging me an arm & a leg to do it.

    At this point I am just about ready to mount the grey primered crap on the bike slap the numbers on it & see ya'll on the grid come Febuary.

    [This message has been edited by Tailender (edited 01-09-2002).]
     
  8. Rev Limit Racing

    Rev Limit Racing Well-Known Member

    I used an Airveter gun on mine and it turned out really nice. It's your standard HPLV spray gun. We use the same type on the aircraft at work. Smitty
     
  9. VitoDuc19

    VitoDuc19 MIA

    I use a HVLP touch-up gun which is a knock-off of a Sato (very good and expensive gun), which I paid about a $100 for. Works good for base, clears and single stage paints but you can't spray primers with it. The benefit is that doesn't create a lot of over spray and it's good on small areas.

    Base coat, clear coat is the way to go if you want multiple colors since the tape/dry time is usually less than an hour. Single stage take something like 6-8 hours. I've good luck though with PPG single stage paints, nice finish and durable. I also like that I only have to mix one paint to do touch-ups after my too frequent crashes...
     
  10. Stimy25

    Stimy25 Well-Known Member

    What is this Jason??? Has my infamously overdone rattle can paint jobs, left you uninspired? Oh for shame, going with the good stuff... [​IMG] Were you able to do a fair job of repairing your bodywork?
     
  11. gpracer15

    gpracer15 Built to Ride

    Tired of expensive jobs then send your stuff to me. I will paint, sticker, and number it. Prices vary.
     
  12. Mongo

    Mongo Administrator

    I really liked the base clear coat on the 99 ZX6R I painted but I gotta agree with Vito that the single coat enamel worked just as well on the 98 (I used PPG as well). I would go with the enamel in the beginning, get some practice and then move on to the nicer quality paints. $200 for the first visit to the paint store but if you know you'll do it again buy larger quantities of reducer and hardener and it'll be cheaper for the next job.

    The coolest part is seeing it when you're done and realize it actually looks pretty good [​IMG]

    [This message has been edited by Mongo (edited 01-09-2002).]
     
  13. Jason Coleman

    Jason Coleman Well-Known Member

    Hey Stimy, my repair job is perfect [​IMG] Just wait until you see the great paint job over the terrible body repair. Hey, if I use enough paint, can I mask all of shoddy repair work? I seem to have better luck fiberglassing my hands together than anything on the body work. Hopefully, the plastic Dr can repair my repair work [​IMG]

    Thanks for all of the info about the paint guns.
     
  14. THEPLASTICDR

    THEPLASTICDR Well-Known Member

    Jason I can repair any repair.
    www.theplasticdr.net
    Mark.

    [This message has been edited by THEPLASTICDR (edited 01-21-2002).]
     
  15. ruckusracing

    ruckusracing Well-Known Member

    I personally don't spray, but I work at a bike body shop and Larry (the painter) said most paints now a days are solid base paint and you have to use a gravity feed gun. That just about max's out my knowledge on paint other than use a good resperator...very bad fumes and microdroplets of paint being blown about in the air. Don't want to paint the inside of your lungs.
     

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