Ohlins cart kit/ttx install: Diy?

I love working on my bikes. It's therapeutic. But this may be an undertaking. I'm hoping that you guys can give me some solid advice.

I have a couple of future racing bikes, zx10rr & 17 r6. I'm sitting on the bikes and ohlins gear, and contemplating doing the carts and shock exchanges myself. I know with the shock, it's not difficult, but what about the carts?

What specialty tools do I need?

Is it possible for me to be walked through this?

I value knowledge and understanding and would rather make a few mistakes and learn from them than pay someone to get perfection, and have no idea how to change the springs for a different track. The self fulfillment of unequivocal hands-on is a route I'd much prefer.

What are your thoughts and recommendations?

 

Yes......!

 

Suspension work is all about details. No specials skills are required, but a lot of patience. You'll definitely have to buy some special tools which may or may not be worth it.

There's no guarantee of perfection when you pay someone to do it either. I've taken apart my share of "professionally" built forks and been appalled at the hackery inside.

 

This is one of these where if you have to ask...

 

Carts are 100% doable at home. As mentioned, you'll need a couple of specialized tools.

For sure, you'll need a fork oil level gauge. Motion Pro makes an affordable one. You could probably get away with a small ruler, but it's a lot easier with the proper gauge. And knowing you'll be replacing the fork oil on a race bike on a regular basis, make the investment now.

You'll need whatever tool is required to remove the fork cap, which can be anything from a pin-spanner to a big socket. And remember, the carts will have a different head than factory.

If you replace the fork seals, you'll want a seal driver, but you can make this by cutting a PVC tube in half, lengthwise.

From there, it's all about the individual fork, the zx10 will probably need a special hex key with a slot cut in it (Pit Posse makes one), but I haven't worked on the newest version. Don't about the R6. Older forks require a spring compressor, not sure on the new one.

You'll find the Ohlins version of these tools is crazy expensive, but you can find affordable versions for home use from Motion Pro, Pit Posse, etc. Just figure out what the tool really is, as some dirt bike forks share common components and their stuff is stupid cheap.

Read the service manual, the manual with the carts, and watch some YouTube videos. After you get it all figured out, you'll find it's actually pretty easy, given the proper tools.

 

The self fulfillment of unequivocal hands-on, versus spending however many trackdays, races, set of tires, etc. with an issue you could have avoided with someone who does suspension for a living - it is a tight rope to walk.

 

You can do it. Will it be done right? None of us can tell you. But all of us who do them frequently started out right where you are. If you have good mechanical sympathy then go for it, if you don't it's pretty easy to screw up a cart install. Take your time. Read the directions a few times and have at it.

The R6 will need the racetech cart removal tool and then to install the ohlins you'll need the ohlins install tool. I think it has 8 teeth. Buy the racetech fork oil tool (the motion pro one is awful). I prefer the motion pro fork seal drivers. You'll need the hi speed comp removal tool for the R6 forks (unless they changed them on the '17 and I think they are like the R1 kyb forks now). Race tech damper bleed tool. And the race tech fork spring compressor. And the ohlins cap tool. If you can spring for them buy aluminum wrenches so you don't mar the caps up but you can use normal wrenches just be careful. That should cover it. Use ohlins RT fluid.

 

The rear is easy enough that almost any moron can do it. That is if you're just talking install and not a rebuild.

The front? If you got the cash and you're even a little nervous about it, pay someone who knows what the f they are doing to do it.

Getting 90% out of your set up right right away is easy. The next 5% is a bit harder. The final 5% is hard as f@ck.

 

Tools. Lots of tools. There are tools to disassemble the stock fork, and tools to install the new cart. If the stock cart sticks into the foot of the R1 fork, then it's even more tools. You need a good vice with soft jaws. Is it worth it for that one install? If you like tools, yes. If you like money, then probably not.

Doing it with homemade or makeshift tools usually turns out badly. Some of the parts are delicate. If you're going to do it, get the proper tools. Call and price them, then decide if it's worth it.

 

Forgot about the soft jaws. Racetech used to make those extensions for a normal vice but last time I checked to get a spare set they stopped making them.

 

They are hard to find commercially. I make mine on a mill, but those chunks of aluminum are not cheap. I also have the Motion Pro suspension vice, which is great for fork servicing.

 

I was gonna mention those. Just picked up the clamp tool from Racetech earlier this year. Very handy tool if you're doing R6 forks! Those things never come out of the stanchions!

 

Really the worst part about getting suspension work done is shipping stuff all over the place. $$ to get the parts delivered, $$ to ship your forks to the suspension guy, $$ to get it all shipped back to you. Shocks aren't too bad but forks aren't cheap to ship.

 

Buy a hardshell gun case (with combo lock) and ship in that. Yeah, still have to pay for the shipping but it keeps the goons from trashing your forks.

 

Absolutely the advice I needed in every aspect.

Can't thank you guys enough.

Thank you!

I will def start with the R6, as it's far less complex than the balance free forks. I really hope they don't stick, as I've heard they are notorious for it on the r1.

I don't mind the investment in tools. I would far rather make the investment once than continually having to send them out. The gun case idea is brilliant, though.

Will do some educating over the next month or two and will post my progress when I break them down in the cooler months.

Thank you again for all your suggestions and help!

 

So much this.

 

Just let him have the whole bike. That's the easiest way to do it.

 

Carts are very easy. Get a service manual thats the best way to start it tells you how to do it step by step well in mine anyway. The tools are really the only PITA, buying them that is.

 

You're going to need to separate the chrome slider tube from the lower stanchion.

The new R6 forks are the same forks on the latest gen R1. They need to come completely apart to do a cart install. To date, I've replaced three chrome slider tubes that DIYers trashed saving themselves money.

 

I think I'm one of the only people that think shipping is a friggin bargain. I'll have people who live 3 hours away from the shop agonizing over the $25 in shipping their forks when the alternative means 6 hours of driving. That's valuing your time at about $4/hour. After you figure in fuel costs, shipping is a pretty good deal.