"Never put antisieze on sparkplugs"

I have broken plugs off into Ford 4.6ltr heads twice!!! Fucking things!!!

 

The best is when someone brings a car in for a tune up that has had the plugs in there for over 100k miles and when go to remove the plug the metal part the socket goes onto just spins off flush with the head leaving everything (including the porcelain) stuck in there.

 

We do agree on something.

 

This much talk about spark plugs.. hmm


I use anti seize EVERYTIME on my bikes and customers. I do not use a torque wrench when I tighten plugs I go by the feel after the crush gasket makes contact. Make sure you dont get any on the electrode I usually avoid the bottom thread or 2 all together. Doing this atleast a few hundred times and not one problem is better than one of the plugs I changed seizing up in the aluminum head damaging threads or breaking off which has happened to people costing someone time and $ for something that could have been avoided.

Spark plugs dont take much torque and you actually get a better feel of whats going on with the crush gasket when there is some lube on the threads.

One more thing you dont need much a thin coating is all.

 

Have I ever seen a plug someone snapped off in an aluminum head with no anti-seize on it? Yes.

Have I ever seen a plug or head or anything else mechanical damaged by using anti-seize? Never.

Been wrenching on domestic and Japanese autos long before bikes and I'll stick to my experience.

 

I use Loctite heavy duty "metal free" on all plugs. Seems to work just fine. Why that brand? Because it comes with Carrillo rods and I have 50 freaking tubes of it laying around. I'm pretty much a NGK guy and they recommend the angular method of tightening the plugs. Gasket contact + 1/2 a turn. It works. It isn't rocket science.

Edit: that's with crush gaskets. The copper gaskets get 1/16th turn.

 

What about if you are re-installing the plug? contact + 1/2 turn will be way too much.

Suzuki says 8 ft-lbs DRY.

 

100% Agree.
Been using your exact method for 10 years.

 

Is that with or without soaking the plug with lubricant prior to removing?

 

I wish I had a clip of Parcells kicking chairs and saying bullshit question.

 

never used Anti-Sieze, but i do use motor oil on the threads. never had any probs with any of my cars or bikes the last 10 years.

 

So....Its conclusive...the engine builders and mechanics say use it and everyone else says no.

lmao

I will continue to use it.

 

Simple, tighten to somewhere between "falls out" and "strips threads."

 

DOD tight?

 

The more you learn, the more we will start agreeing.

 

So clever. Asshat.

 

When you are right being clever is just an added bonus.

 

always used in every engine ive built. never an issue. of course some assume that means you COAT the plug with it.

as for your issue toypher, its common on your bike, like matt said, the threads tend to hang in the cc and get carbon, deposits, lead (you use outlaw right?) and then when you attempt to remove the fxxked up threads tear up the head threads on way out, get stuck or break the plug off. This is why we take our race engines (that are local) plugs out every few races and clean threads, inspect plugs, etc. Its a good practice to get into...while you do it, keep a chart of leakdown and you might be able to catch a problem before it happens.

 

Plugs typically get 5-6 ft lbs of torque, you are not going to over torque using antiseize if you use a torque wrench. I have NEVER over torqued a plug, AS or no. Don't sock them down.

If your plug threads protrude too far beyond the machined thread they will get messed up, as ed who points out, I think he built an ingine once on an Kawasuki.