More rattle can paint questions

Got two sets of bodywork that are in great shape... except for the paint. The paint on both are old rattle can jobs that are bubbling and flaking.
What's the best way to get the old paint off? I can't just scuff it up and re-prime it, since leaving any paint underneath will be an issue. I've used aircraft paint stripper before, but that stuff will eat right through fiberglass resin.

I'm hoping there's a relatively painless way to get down to the base without spending 40 hours sanding the crap out of it (hell even at 8 hours, my time is worth more than buying a brand new set of bodywork).

 

d/a dual action sander witth 180 grit will get it off fast ,then 320 grit ,then prime then 400 / 600 grit, then paint and then and then and then ive painted bikes and cars over 15 yrs. word of advice dont blow 400 in materials for 1 race bike you may crash

 

+1 to the above.


My personal experience is if given the choice I would avoid the enamel type spray paints (Krylon for example). Enamel goes on heavy and thick and takes a long time to dry.

Go with Lacquer. It sprays on light and dries to the touch very quick. Which is good if you F'up, you can sand it much quicker and try again.

I found that the Dupli-color Perfect Match display at the local Autozone or Pep Boyz usually have an immense selection of colors and flavors

http://www.duplicolor.com/products/perfectMatch/

 

Thanks for the tips on the d/a sander. I'll have to see if I can borrow one.

Precisely why I don't want to put a shit-ton of labor hours into it either.
I figure if I can get it sanded and primed in a couple hours, then spend $50 on rattle cans and taping, I'll have a pretty good paint job from 10ft that I won't cry too much about if it gets scuffed.

 

Or you could get a cheap spray gun (assuming you have a air compressor) and learn how to paint on those old bodyworks and you might get good at it one day

 

You can get a great HVLP gun at Harbor Freight. Well, not GREAT, but great for painting track glass.

 

I'm removing enamel paint from my bodywork. With 80 grit and a power sander this is taking a few days. Then I have to repair and prep it.

 

Exactly my issue. The old enamel rattle job is pretty thick.

 

laquer thinner will sometimes simply wash the old rattle can paint right off. if not, there is fiberglass paint stripper. works nice.:up:

 

Buy replacement bodywork. You can get some amazing deals. Hotbodies has a two-for-one deal going on, there is ebay glass out there, etc. Your labor has $$ value!

 

Marhyde flexible parts stripper. /thread

 

yes those guns kick ass for 14-20 dollars. Ive sprayed many many hooturds bikes i mean 3 crash average a weekend it kept the miles off my devilbiss gun.
duplicolor is awesome for the price

 

This is Krylon, w/o a clear coat..all I did was scuff up the old paint, wash the fairings down with a good dish soap, wipe it with a wax remover, and put 2 good coats of primer on, from a rattle can. Sand with 400 wet, and then add the color, using light coats, and letting it dry thoroughly in 70+ degree temps.

 

Perhaps one of the career painters can confirm but, IIRC, all you need to do is a good job sanding everything smooth (DA), that doesn't mean that ALL remnants of the rattle paint has to be gone just get it down smooth then give it a nice coat of epoxy primer.....that should act as a sealer/barrier from the old to the new paint, so you shouldn't have compatibility issues between different types of paint.

 

Doesnt really matter if the old stuff is flaking off, you prime the old paint everything after that is compromised and shitty. If the paint really is that crappy it should come off easy with a chemical stripper and not harm the underlaying layers as long as you dont let it sit too long. The primer put on from the get go is pretty good stuff normally.

 

I would love to know if this is true. Even though I only have a little bit left I'd rather not do it

 

I been looking at Asla corp. Killer Cans paint. Looks like a 2 part paint in a can. Check it out. Might be better than what can be had in a single part paint. http://www.alsacorp.com/killercans.htm

 

Polyester filling primer if you need it, 2K urethane otherwise. Covers anything.

 

I think the problem I always end up having is dealing with dust. Dust always finds a way of settling on it and making the finish (whichever coat) end up rough and shitty looking.

 

Make a makeshift booth out of 6mil plastic and pvc pipe, hose the sucker down, and eliminate the dust..just be sure to wear a Good dust mask..