Link to replacement control boxes for digital warmers

I tried the search, but can't find it. There was a post a little while ago with a link to replacement control boxes for the Sumomoto and T2 type digital tire warmers. Can anyone help?

 

this is what you are after:
http://www.google.com/products?hl=en&client=firefox-a&hs=Yp&rls=org.mozilla:en-USfficial&q=digital+controller+johnson+a419&oq=&um=1&ie=UTF-8&ei=TjyNS56JBZDqM5Cp4G0&sa=X&oi=product_result_group&ct=image&resnum=3&ved=0CCIQzAMwAg

In particular this one:
http://www.pexsupply.com/Johnson-Controls-A419ABC-1C-Single-Stage-Digital-Temperature-Control-120-240v-SPDT

 

Thanks for the reply. Saw those type controllers (like the Chickenhawk's digital boxes), but thought I had also seen a link to the "old" style box that was used on the older Sumomoto's, old style T2's and some other early digital warmers. The boxes were usually in a pouch on the warmer.

 

http://www.dwyer-inst.com/Products/Product.cfm?Group_ID=402&Product_ID=706&sPageName=Ordering

These look just like the ones my Sumomoto warmers use, however the specs indicate these units only go up to 158F, which isn't high enough. I have a front warmer that has a faulty control board, and I'd love to try this out, but I couldn't find a unit that went past 158F.

 

The Love controller is junk. I use tc's for homebrewing and every Love I have used has failed. I have never replace a Johnson controller.

 

The adjustment on these will go well past 158 degrees. I think that is working environment you are looking at.

 

You're correct - I misread the specs. :up:

 

I also need this as I have a set of T2's that the controller is shit on both. Really would like a cheapo fix if possible since they will be backups to the backups now.

 

Call me I'll show you how I fixed mine. really very easy

 

Also the reason I think the T2's are fatally flawed. JMHO, sorry Stick.

 

Had a couple people ask me for help, so here you go:

I am not an electrician!!!! I accept no responsibility for you hurting yourself! I do not recommend doing the following! You take your life into your own hands! This is how I fixed mine. If anyone sees any glaring errors feel free to correct me.


Fixing tire warmers for mortals using the Johnson Controls A419 controller:
Materials Needed:
Johnson Controls A419 controller for 110v
Short extension cord (heavy duty) tire warmers use up to 1200 watts each
Wire nuts
Tools

Supplemental wiring instructions for Johnson Controller:

Cut the extension cord to your preferred dimensions. Strip the outer insulation back about 1 1/2 to 2 inches. Strip each of the three inside wires about 1/4" (the wires that attach directly to the terminal blocks can be stripped a little shorter). Run both cords through the clamp and attach the clamp to the controller housing.

Make sure you either

a) mark which black wire comes from the plug end or
b) have a continuity checker handy. You will need to distinguish which black wire is which, and it's tough to do once things get clamped inside the box.

Have two short "pigtail" wires handy. I used white and black since that matches the wires they will attach to. I sacrificed a few inches of cord to obtain these.

Wiring:

1. Twist the two green wires together and put a wire nut on them.
2. Twist the two white wires AND a pigtail together and secure with a wire nut.
3. Attach the black wire from the plug end AND a pigtail to the terminal marked "120V" Attach the other end of the pigtail to the terminal marked "C."
4. Attach the black wire from the female end of the cord to the terminal marked "NO."
5. Attach the pigtail from step #2 to the terminal marked "COM"
6. Using the tiny screwdriver, wire the temperature probe wires to the terminals COM and SEN. This terminal block is toward the top of the controller.

Ok so now you have your control box wired. The next step is to tie the control box to the warmers. Your broken warmers most probably still have a control box attached to them. Pull the non working control box out of the warmers and cut the wires which connect the control box to the warmers. Leave as much of the old wire as possible. There are probably three wires two thicker ones and one thin wire. The thicker wires are the leads for the heating element and the thin wire is the old temperature sensor. You will be abandoning the old temperature sensor so this wire does not matter. Cut off the female end of the cord and wire the black and white wires to the two wires going into the warmers. Does not matter which goes to which. The ground wire for the cord will not be used. Make your attachments secure and be sure they won’t short against each other. The only thing left to do is to get the new temperature sensor probe into the tire warmers. I have always just shoved the sensor as far as possible into the warmer itself. Do not let the metal probe end lay against the heating element or they will cycle constantly. That’s it you are done. Check your temperatures with a thermometer if you are that picky, I’m not.

 

I think the quality of the newer warmers control box are shit, I got a set of PNW Warmers 3 years ago, worked great but the rear was a bit too small for the 195/200 tire, got sent a new design controller and warmer, didnt' work right out of the box, couldn't get another one as all her new warmers all failed at some point so I had to borrow a rear of a friend, the front STILL works fine,

Bought another set but will fix the new rear using the above parts. I posted a thread a month ago so I am glad you guys say the LOVE control box's are junk as that's what I was told to use.

 

I have the old sumomotos they still work great for me knock on wood

 

Just want to say thanks to dobr24 for the info on the replacement controller and how to get it going. I have a pair of Sumomotos and the control box crapped out after only two uses. I got the Johnson controller and it works perfectly and was really not that difficult to hook up. Saved me about $350 that I would have spent on a new pair of Woodcrafts! Thanks again

 

Also just for the info i did this to a pair of T2's and you need to use the thermo they give you, i hooked up the one in the warmers and i ended up with an error code for it. Had to shove in the the new one, not a huge deal, they work great though.

 

did you make any pictures to go along with your instructions?

 

what i did to mine, but the control box works but the warmers dont

the control box turns on and shows the temp and that it is suppose to be on heat.. but the warmers arent doing anything.. any advice

 

I think you have yours wired incorrectly. Any what is all that charred area on the right side of your box? Doesnt look right!


Ok here is my set up./.. Johnson A419 controller

From left to right for wire hookups

A/c Input junction:

240V: empty

COM: One plug wire and one element wire

120V: One plug wire and one jumper wire to "c" on output junction.


Output junction:

NC- Empty

C- Jumper wire from 120v from a/c input junction

NO- Other element wire



Jumpers up towards the top are both in "short" position. There are 2 of them together.



Also i believe the polarity for the plug wires matters so you may have to disconnect and just use a DVOM to see what wire is what. The LARGE male plug is neutral.

 

To further the Johnson controller install..
I just poked a hole in my warmers to install the sensor. I pulled it through and hooked into the OG harness.


Pulled in and a few stitches will make it perfect again!


Controllers jumped together. All that's left is a small board to mount to and a hole on top to hook over peg!

 

Old thread but I got a set of Sumomoto's for $20 in non-working condition.

I ordered new temperature control units off of eBay for $14 each and they work great now.

Here is the link to the temperature control unit I bought. Took about 1/2 hour to rewire.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/10A-110V-Digital-Temperature-Controller-Temp-Sensor-Thermostat-Control-Relay-US/141731449329?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

This could also be used for conversion to add temperature control/functionality to warmers without this feature.

It has a sensor and a switch. Once the tire is heated to your specified temperature the switch shuts off the heating elements, and when it drops below specified temp, by 2 degrees it turns them back on.