Hydraulic clutch engagement point, modifying rod?

Bike in question - 2023 KTM superbike GT

Would taking a small amount of material of the rod in the pic below move clutch engagement closer to the grip/bar?

I prefer a close grip point.
Others have also said the bite point is quite a distance from the bar and one person said he removed material from the rod and it helped.

Curious if anyone knows if this will work before ordering a spare rod to tinker with?

 

What will likely happen is it’ll work for the first pump, then the piston just won’t return as far, and subsequent squeezes will feel the same as original, or worse you’ll have the slave over extend and pop out. Get an adjustable lever instead?

 

Yeah, I’m leary to try it without more info.

The stock one is adjustable for throw length, but that doesn’t move bite engagement point.

 

Yes it will move grip point closer

 

Why wouldn't it return all the way if he fully releases the lever ? The shorter rod should actually let it be fully returned sooner.

 

Just like as your pads wear on your brakes, the pistons only really retract as far as they're pushed back. Shorten the rod, and the push back distance will be reduced.

 

an adjustable lever wont accomplish the same thing?

 

From what I can tell riding the bike only a small fraction.

 

some pro dirt riders switch the master to a smaller bore type that requires less effort vs the larger bore. There should be a number underneath that identifies the bore size.
Also you can zip tie the clutch lever to the bar & turn the bar left over night. Could have an air bubble

 

Replacement with a Brembo has been a thought, $300+ kinda sucks. lol

I have reverse bleed, zip tie over night, normal bleed.
Has helped a small amount but not to my liking. From what others have posted seems to be an issue with these bikes.

 

I don't think that is a comparable situation. Brakes rely on the stretch of the dust seal and piston seals to retract the pistons. The clutch uses springs so the pushrod would be pushed back the same distance every time.

 

Right, it would be pushed back to the same starting point each time, which would be moved inward some due to... that shorter rod. The clutch isn't going to somehow push further back to account for the rod being shorter, it's mechanically limited by the stack height of the fibers and steels.

Also, on brakes that seal retraction, it's not much, pump a piston out some time to see it in action.

 

Yeah, I think you are right. I got confused by the clutch springs being more positive in piston return than brake seals, but the net result would be the same. The clutch lever would still need to travel its full length to disengage the clutch.

 

I think he is talking about rod at lever which is external part of hydraulics. Master will always retract fully against internal stop. Rod between master and lever will bring lever closer if shortened. Only problem is there may be free play in lever and need to fill that gap. Assuming this lever/rod is what I think it is.

 

Good Quality adjustable levers will do what you're after..(CRG/FP/ASV) there are others, just don't go the cheepchineesum or PSR, route.
I have both CRG and FP (shorties) on my 990SuperDukeR and 950SuperMoto, zero complaints about the engagement points

No they are not a Free$$ modification..however worth the $ IMO.