does anyone know how I can determine what different stem/triples (front ends) are interchangeable with my bike? I found a page that list stem bearing part numbers for referance there so I guess the only other thing I would need to know is the stem legnth, it that correct? the bike is an '85 Honda XL250R, (drum brakes) I know I can bolt on a later XL front for disc but I am considering the motard route and have heard rumors the CBR front is bolt on so Im trying to find out how to confirm this and what other options I have. also has the RFVC engine thats due for a rebiuld, so I need a good Honda RFVC Guru for suggestions there if there are any here. /////
I would suggest dumping the 250 and getting a 350 or bigger XL/XR. It is basically the same money to rebuild the 250 as it is to rebuild the bigger motors. Ray Ray's Tech dirtbike & ATV repair Lawrenceville GA
XLint has new owners and it seems like alot of people quit going to their BBS, (and now their website is forsale) seems like not too many people want to talk about these old RFVCs.. anyway, I cant dump it.. looks like new! (its NEVER been dumped) and I allready have a complete spare top end Im workin on and a new a .040 wiesco waiting to go in there along with the dual carbs from an XL600. I have some cam questions and I also need to know if I can splice into the external oil lines to run a small oil cooler, I dont know if the OE oil pump is up to it. BUT, If you run accross ANY 1985 XL, ANY size, please LMK! my favorite year! thx /////
I've had good results swapping front ends from different bikes by going to a salvage yard and getting the run of it.Yes,you need to find a place nice enough to let you rummage for hours to mix and match parts,plus you may need to have some machining to finish a fitting.There is no crossreferance chart,but you may get lucky and find someone that has made a swap that you can duplicate.Sometimes,stems can be pressed out of one clamp and put into another.I'd suggest you investigate the power/handling potential of any bike before you build it to race,any bike may be fun to build and ride on the street,but it may get tireing to get your doors blown off every time you hit the track.If the bike is as mint as you say,there will be no problem getting top dollar for it.
As far as Honda parts go, your XL250 is a little different (from street bikes) in that it uses the same size bearings top and bottom. That only (sport) bike that shares that same part number is the 2002 CBR954RR, and that is on the top bearing only. I hope that helps some. See Ya, Darrin Talbott
a 2002 CBR954RR?thx Darrin. thats intresting, and thats the only one? how much trouble would it be to look up how many years/sizes the XLs used this same set? all the newer XLs have front disc, but I know the '85 XL 350 and 600 had it and the same speedo and ignition switch/lock. Im starting to think thats the best way for me to go here also, can anyone tell me whats involved in making any front end fit? a couple of custom made bearing races, would that do it? I will hold off until winter to take it apart. thx /////
The 954RR is the only sport bike. The followiing bikes also have the same steering stem bearings: XR600R 85-00 XL600 83-90 XR500R 81-84 XL500R 82 CR500R 84-89 XR400R 96-99 I hope this helps. See Ya, Darrin Talbott
later year xl250 has disk and xl350 will fit your bike , CRs might fit too, for supermotard fit NX250 or NX 650 or NX125 front end( its 19inch) ,but beware all Honda RFVC have problem with oiling the head so they are eating up rocker arms and cams plus ruining the cam seats , to make the matter worse honda dirt bikes dont have proper oil filter (seems like all other brands has them except honda),so the metal waste from head F up the whole engine ,VF 500 and 750 also have same problem , i was a honda dealer mechanic for 8 years and all the ones we saw were wasted and some had only 10k miles , the clutch also is weak , sorry to rain on your parade but those hondas suck compare to all other brands in Every respect except handling , all other brands have strong clutches and real oil filter ,disk ,more power etc ..kawasaki KLR250 has top speed of 99 miles stock compare to 85 on your bike Another option is to send your rockers and cam to Megacycle cam in nothern california so it can be hardened , first mod on XL wil be to remove the baffle from mufller , change the filter with ladys panties and drill holes on the top of airbox , jet it to XR specs of same year , (get jets specs from honda dealer ), this will add few HPs ,if your clutch start slipping (it will sooner or later) you may be able to upgrade to XR or Barnett clutch ,after that Megacycle cams and miled head get you more HP and 11000 rpm but durability will be suspect
I hadnt even thought about the NX, thanks! I had all but forgot about the NX, up untill recently, Ive been more "Dirt" oriented so the NX always seemed sorta retarded to me but now that you mention it, the NX was sorta the first production "motard", no? (what does "motard" mean anyway) the dirt riding is hard on equipment (both man and machine) Im starting to enjoy the nice smooth surfaces more and more... (Im almost that old) HA Ha! I wont ever get rid of this one no matter what anyone says about it I wanted one when they were new but I wasnt able to get one then (I was 16 and had no income) so arround 1995 I finally found one used that wasnt abused, you wouldnt belive how hard it is to find a XL that hasnt been "XRized"! I have heard about the problems with these engines you mention, most say it was a problem with the early RFVCs only, but they didnt work at the dealership either.. I will see how this one is this winter when I tear into it. the plan so far is, .040 over, porting, 600carbs, and still debating on a custom cam grind. I dont think it will take much... heck, Ive put the nuetech juice in it a couple of times and I cant belive what just that stuff alone does! its remarkable! didnt realize the KLRs were that fast! I bet it takes a while to get there tho now I want a YZ426F! (and Im a Honda guy) so mabey in ten years I will be able to find a good one I can afford. Ive heard that some folks are sticking those engines in F2, F3 chassis with great results too, anyone in WERA tried this? Im not ready to completely give up the off-road capabilitys but If I find the right F3 or 4, Ill get one for mountain rides and track days. thanks for all the input!
.040 over wil not increase power at all ,they want to sell you aftermarket pistons but i would stay with original piston , remember XL is aircooled and run hot , stock pistons have high silicon content so they expand less when they get hot which give you better compresion and riliability ,Wisecos expand more so you have to run them lose more like a worn out stock piston ! , i would mill the head or cylinder .040 but first order the cam ,install it without springs and measure valve /pitson clreance before milling the head ,deepen the valve pockets .040 if necceray , noone makes a road racing cams for that model , they are all midrenge cams so stock carb will work fine ,stock carbs also works as rev limit or it can blow up if you miss a gear (XL dont have electronic rev limit) , now if you port the intake you may get something from bigger carbs , Edco or Powroll do porting , i would them to only work on intake because porting the exhuast dont make much of a difference
Ive learned that I can bolt ANY front end to my bike (or any bike for that matter) relatively easy by making a custom stem. the NX Idea still sounds good tho. I need to do some more research on suspension geometry.. I want to find out exactly what the changes will do before I spend the money on them, my guess is that after I alter the front, I will have to work on the rear.. I may be better off finding a complete NX and leaving my XL alone... I got the .040 wiesco off ebay (brand new) less than a tenth of what they are new so I will probably go that route but thanks for bringing the expansion factors to my attention. I will check with wiesco to see what clearances they recomend before I bore it. I also found a NOS piston too (ebay rocks!) so I may heat them both up in the oven and measure to see how much difference there is. the port work I can handle myself, then I may have it flow tested if I decide to have a cam made up, but Ive heard the stock cam should be fine for what Im doing. as far as milling the head, wouldnt that loosen the cam chain and alter the cam timing? I havnt found a way to adjust the cam timing yet, there is no aftermarket sprockets available so I will have to come up with something there too if I go that route /////
you must slot the cam by dremel anyways , retard to get more revs , adavance it to get more torque , milling the head advance the cam so just retard it back to original setting ,wisecos are 11.5 to one , you can order different size sproket from any after market shop
