Head Angle Adjuster & Rear Shock Shim Question

Adrenalist, You may not know this but DDK732 works for Kawasaki so he will have good information.

I will say my son rode a ZX10 all weekend and thought it handled well at the pace he was riding on current version Dunlop slicks. However, it was too fast, with kit electronics, etc...LOL. Interestingly, we put on some new leftover GPA's we had from Ty's racing and it was chattering all over the place. Likely a slight change in geometry from the different tires, but thought that was still interesting information.

DDK, do you know anything about the kit boxes letting the front end come up too high when in a wheelie? We tried settings 3-5 in the different cells. Bike would get up 18-24 inches before coming down and not just barely float like the stock stuff does?

 

Rob,

No, I have perused this forum a time or two for specific info, but this is the first time getting acclimated with the tribe. I could deduce that he is definitely in the know based on his responses. I just didn't know his knowledge base ran that deep. Thanks for sharing. And thanks for relaying your son's experiences as well. It's really cool that you two share the same passion.

DDK, the only other thing that has me slightly apprehensive on this bike is the tranny. If you could PM me a contact that can rework it into a box of finite precision, it would be most appreciated.

 

Were they the older gen GPAs???? I've heard about issues with the older GPA fronts.

PM sent about kit box stuff.

 

Where are you located????

The best thing to do is shim the tranny. The kit manual gives you the proper clearances to shim to.

I've seen tranny issues come from poor rear set designs that have very bad lever ratios and shift kill timing not properly adjusted. I've raced the previous gen ZX-10 for a few seasons with no tranny issues. The new one is better on wear because the ratios are closer...especially 1st to 2nd.

The only other options are a kit tranny, which isn't available in the US or one of those special built trannys they use in the UK. Both are hard to get and cost a lot of money.

 

Yes, they were date codes from 2010-2011, but they were stored properly, as I always kept them in my office. We figured it was worth trying as the bike had used tires when we picked it up, and Tyler had 1.5 days on them. The rear DOT was great, more grip than the worn out slick, but the front was horrible, and chattered everywhere, even standing up some on the brakes. We even used the old trick of increasing the pressure all the way to 38PSI and it helped but still chattered.

If we had more time I would have switched the front back. I asked him if he wanted to and he said, no I'm just having fun, not racing or trying to set my best lap time.

My son thought the transmission shifted well and liked the auto blip downshifting. He would still feather the clutch and control letting it out while entering a corner. I told him I thought all the new electronics were supposed to handle that. So he tried it a couple times and said he didn't like the feel and stuck with what he knew from old bikes without slipper clutches.

Thanks for the kit box info.

 

Yeah, I'd say a tire issue. Even stored properly the rubber still gets old. We had a similar issue with Dani a year or two ago while testing. We threw on an older GPA and the bike felt terrible. We put on a new tire and everything was fixed. Personally, I won't ride on anything over a year old.


It takes some getting used to the auto blip and trust the electronics. That's when you can start tuning the engine brake control to get the feel you want during braking....but even then the rider has to adapt. Once you get used to it, it's pretty helpful.

 

Texas! But I could easily dismount the trans and ship it.

I appreciate the heads up on where to find the shimming specs.

I had the exact issue you're speaking of on the rear sets when a previous owner switched from Sato back to oem when I picked up the bike. He missed putting on a spacer and when I corrected the problem, it was already too late. The tranny never worked optimally after that. With the zx-10rr, I will be running Lightech's, (on their way to me as I type this) so I don't foresee an issue with the rearsets. Great, great point, though.

Good to know you haven't had any issues racing with the transmission.

I figured there would be guys like the UK transmission masters Stateside. Surprised there isn't!

Thank you for your solid response. You pretty much hit on this from all possible angles. It gives me some options to look at as I dive into it and see what problems (if any) I incur.

Lastly, just a quick note, I have owned quite a few brands over the years, and the ease of Team Green's racing catalog and support has been said by many as top tier. I haven't even received the bike yet, am already feeling that way. Really appreciate the feedback and support. Thank you DDK!

 

DDK,

First wave of parts are in..


...but before I pull the trigger on the next batch, I've a few questions to throw your way:

-I have the ECU and will be ordering the harness. I'm debating on whether or not to get the adaptor cable this early in the game, dependent on whether or not I can find a reputable Kawi tuner familiar with the mapping and with said cable. Can you recommend a reputable Kawi tech tuner? ... In, or as close to, Texas is preferred, but for sure, Quality>Distance.

-From your experience and point of view, if you were building this motor to run pump 93, and wanted to exploit what power you could from the upgraded crankcase, cylinder head, and tappets, what specific parts would you upgrade from the catalog? (Porting/polishing being a given.)

 

Get the communication cable. Tuning the AFR is just the tip of the iceberg of what the race ecu is capable of.

 

I would agree on getting the cable. The bike we borrowed, my son and I played a bit with the software and it was pretty easy to use. I had some questions, on how to do things, but I thought it was great.

 

The ECU, Harness and communication cable are must haves. The software is a little complicated at first, but if you study the FI manual that comes with it and play around with the program a bit it becomes fairly simple to use. You just have to grasp the concept of each parameter and how the adjustments will effect everything. I'd also get the kit oil can because it gives a location to mount the rec/ reg plus it helps the lower end breathe a little better.

I don't know any Kawi specific race shops out in Texas, but I'm sure there are some good tuners out that way that could help you. Maybe some of the people here on the BBS can recommend a good race shop near you.


My personal race bike is tuned to run 91 pump gas. I have built the engine to SSTK spec using the kit manual specs....thinner head gasket and cam timing. After mapping the AFR I am making 196 on pump fuel. Another motor I've built to the same spec is making 202 on MR12. The basic SSTK build is plenty, in my opinion, for club racing.

On the RR you can do a full SBK build with the kit cams (also need to use the kit springs) and probably get a bit more power than the 202 I've seen on the SSTK motor. I would recommend following the kit manual for all the specs and requirements.