Looking for some advice about my 06 GSXR600. This past weekend my FI light came on. It came on in the first lap of all 5 of my races and when I got to the pits and turned the bike off it would not be there when I re-started it. So after practice I kept it running and put it in dealer mode to get the code C25 (ignition signal #2). I checked all the connections (especially on the 2nd) and pushed all the coils down to make sure they were seated right. Still did it the next time out. Has this happened to anyone else? I'm thinking a bad ignition coil but don't want to spend $70+ on a new one and have the same issue. Anyone know how I can test it? The problem is, it won't give me the code unless it's being run under load, can't get it to click on while idling or revving (and there's 6+ inches of snow on the roads). Thanks! Matt
Do you have an ignition module (Dynojet)? Pull the coil and static test it per the manual (resistances). Switch coils 2 and 3 and see if it comes on for #3.
No PC, just a translogic direct wire quick shifter. I was planning on doing the swap and seeing what code came up, but the only time I've gotten the code to come on is under race conditions, and I can't simulate that. Even after the race once I shut off the bike it wouldn't come back on until I got back on the track. I'm thinking maybe the heat caused the failure so I'm going to try to let it get hot and see what happens. Thanks for the reply RM, I'll check out the manual and at least try the resistance test.
Did you try to load the motor? hold all brakes, but bike in gear and let clutch out slowly to try to make the motor miss fire. You should feel it stumble or breakup if that coil is on its way out. Also i have used coils if you need one.
check that wiring is not getting pinched under airbox. i have seen that on the 06+GSXR's on some guys race bikes... Sometimes with aftermarket harnesses (bpd, dj)all those extra wires and you can short a coil out on the steel valve cover bolt.
Good news is I think the coil is OK. I did an Ohm test on the #2 coil (the one I thought was bad) and the #1 coil and got the same exact resistance number. I checked all the wires and Ed you may be right, there are a lot of wires in there because of the quick shifter. Changed the spark plugs (needed it anyways) and now all I have to do it try it out. Thanks to all for the advice, I'll let you know if the problem is solved.
PROBLEM SOLVED ... kind of Got this from another forum and thought I'd post here in case someone uses the search function later. I do not have a Bazzaz but my QS cuts the ignition too so I'm thinking that may have been my problem as well.
PROBLEM REALLY SOLVED ... really Finally sucked it up and replaced the ignition coils. No more light! Just wanted to update in case others have the same issue and use the search function.
Glad to hear it and I WAS going to warn you that a failing (not all the way toast/failed) coil can work and test out ok untill it gets hot. I use a heat gun on them (and crank/cam sensors) that I suspect before I ohm them, after having had my ass kicked by cold-good/hot-bad coils..
