Front fork oil for Ohlins R/T

Discussion in 'Tech' started by nktr, Nov 17, 2010.

  1. nktr

    nktr nktr750@freemail.gr

    I have an ohlins FGRT 802 for my k8 and it is time to change the oil.
    Please if you know a good brand except ohlins oil to fix the fork.
    The only problem that i have is that the rebound on the track is full stiff.
    I need to have at least 2, or the best, 4 more click to rebound and i think if i change the sae from 5 to 7,5 that it will be ok. The brands we have already put to many bikes and they are working good are Spectro and Maxima.
    Do you know other brands that they are working good for race use ?

    Thanks in advance
    Nick
     
  2. metricdevilmoto

    metricdevilmoto Just forking around

    You need to re-valve your forks.
     
  3. nktr

    nktr nktr750@freemail.gr

    that is that i don't to do :)
    I want to change the sae to have 2 or 4 +click to rebound.
    If you know good oil brand for front fork pls tell me.
     
  4. nktr

    nktr nktr750@freemail.gr

    that is what i don't want to do :)


    I want to change the sae to have 2 or 4 +click to rebound.
    If you know good oil brand for front fork pls tell me.
    Thanks again
     
  5. afm199

    afm199 Well-Known Member

    The problem with changing the oil is that viscosity is VERY temperature specific. With heavier oil the forks will be VERY stiff in colder weather. That's why cartridge forks typically use 120-150 cst oil. Throw some ten weight CARTRIDGE FLUID, not fork oil, in if you don't care.
     
  6. goodmatt78

    goodmatt78 Well-Known Member

    :stupid:

    ..but only if you want night and day improvement. It's all in the valving.
     
  7. metricdevilmoto

    metricdevilmoto Just forking around

    But, but, but ... he doesn't want to do that. :confused:

    Nktr, there's only one correct way to solve your problem. If those forks have the original valving in them, they need to be touched by someone that knows what they are doing with Ohlins valving.
     
  8. nktr

    nktr nktr750@freemail.gr




    ++++:up:

    thanks for your answers !!
    I know that the complete solution is that to change the rebound valve but i wanted to change the oil with heavier sae because i only want to have +2 click.
    The only thing that it will be change with this oil is that the compression will be tighter and i have to make it softer as it was before (take out -2 or -4 click).
    In my k2 i made it and it was very good.
    Do you know oil brands that they are works good on front forks?
    Thanks
     
  9. kmfegan

    kmfegan Well-Known Member

    Cartridge forks do not use 120-150 cSt oil. Way too thick.

    Regarding the forks themselves, you need to have them revalved. Even if you remove 2 clicks from the rebound you are still out of the adjustment range you should be.

    Having the low speed rebound adjuster that far in will cause the fork to feel overly stiff on compression also.
     
    Last edited: Nov 18, 2010
  10. Spitz

    Spitz Well-Known Member

    Wait? Spend 1000$+ on forks and cheap out on getting them setup specifically to you? I dont get it.
     
  11. nktr

    nktr nktr750@freemail.gr

    ???
    I can't see something wrong to try it first this way and if it doesn't work to change the rebound valve.
    Pls, is someone know about oil brands that works good?
    Thanks
    Nick
     
  12. goodmatt78

    goodmatt78 Well-Known Member


    This is the oil data you want....you may have to register to view: http://www.activeboard.com/forum.spark?aBID=45537&p=3&topicID=1707043

    However, there is a lot of R&D put into valving specs and it is all done with Ohlins 1309-01 (R&T fork oil) with a Cst of 19.

    You basically have really expensive street forks right now unless you completely revalve the comp and rebound. Honestly, you rebound spec is probably closer to where it should be than your compression spec.
     
    Last edited: Nov 18, 2010
  13. nktr

    nktr nktr750@freemail.gr

    thanks mate [​IMG]

    :beer:
     
  14. kmfegan

    kmfegan Well-Known Member

    You do not have to change the valve itself, just the shim stack.
     
  15. metricdevilmoto

    metricdevilmoto Just forking around

    You'd be shocked. (Or maybe you wouldn't.)

    In most cases, the stacks that come in the 25 and 30 mil carts and the R&T forks needs to be changed to suit the rider. (Although I don't have much experience with the new 30 mil carts. Maybe someone else can weigh in.) The generic stacks are good (better than stock) but not as good as they could be. As it was pointed out, running the R adjustment that close will slow down the C stroke too much. 2 clicks out (or even 4 like the OP wants) is not where those forks need to be in order to work.

    Along the same note, how many riders do you know who spent $1500+ on a full exhaust system and $750+ on a Power Commander and Ignition Module and QuickShifter, but don't pay to have the bike dyno tuned? Over $2k in parts and they use an internet map. Go figure.

    Putting "thicker" fluid in the forks is, at best, a band aid for the problem the OP is having and will create new problems. Like Matt pointed out, there is a lot of data out there regarding R&T stacks and it all was developed using the 1309-01 fork juice.
     
    Last edited: Nov 18, 2010
  16. nktr

    nktr nktr750@freemail.gr

    so what do you suggest to do,
    use ohlins fluid as it was or use other brand?
     
  17. metricdevilmoto

    metricdevilmoto Just forking around

    Get the forks re-valved. Use the Ohlins fluid.

    Any shop with a tech that knows what they are doing with Ohlins products should be able to help you. And they'll use the correct fluid and give you a baseline setting for the forks that should put you where you need to be.
     
  18. nktr

    nktr nktr750@freemail.gr

    ok, thanks a lot !!:up:
     
  19. ed who?

    ed who? the opposite of eharmony.

    i had Dave @GP Suspension go thru my Ohlins R/T forks and holy crap what an improvement and im just a slow ass trackday rider..he did springs (1.05) and modified the valving as well as new fluid. It was not that $$ and he is really good at it. Give him a call and talk to him. It really made my R6 work so much better on the brakes.
     
  20. goodmatt78

    goodmatt78 Well-Known Member

    Whoever you decide to use...mention the C5R3 Ohlins spec. It works REALLY well on the gixxers with 25mm kits. Out of the several specs I have tried, it is my favorite. I went from C4R3 to C5R3 and thought I had new forks.....bye bye brake dive. If your tracks are really smooth C5R4 may be worth a try.
     
    Last edited: Nov 18, 2010

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