I'm sure this has been covered a thousand times, but please bear with me. I'm looking for the best info on how to bed-in a new set of EBC HH's on my stock-rotored 929 racebike (for Daytona). I have been advised by a very fast fellow racer (and good friend - who's NOT going to Daytona!) as follows: 1) Perform 30 light stops (like you're appraoching a stop sign) from approx. 30 mph. Let completely cool. 2) Perform 6 heavy stops / stoppies from at least 60 mph. Let cool Ready for the track. I read from a Ferodo rep (I think) that you should: 1) Perform three successive hard stops...from 80mph, then 100 mph, then 120 mph, with complete cool down between each rep. Comments? Any EBC reps or other knowledgable folk out there?
25 med stops from 30 mph is more than enough to get the pads bedded in. let them cool off before you go race or pratice. I am sure all the ves pad guys are going to start thier well if you ran our pad blah blah blah.
Thanks HFDI - I thought that "medium" stops or other light useage would glaze them over, by not really heating up the [ad...is this true? Am I completely off base here? Should I bother with step 2 of my friend's advice...6 heavy stoppies after doing the 25-30?
Damn I would if my friggin Vesrah pads would ever get here I ordered them from Moose a week ago...& still no pads.
the deal with doing the med stops has two things one to heat the pad up slow and two to get the best contact with your rotor. you just need to get the pad hot slowly and let it cool and you are ready no more needed. The ves work better if you do this too.yes we use both types....
Bill, what did you do to get the old pad material off your rotors or are you using the same brand? Part of a brake pad working well is that it has its own material on the rotor to stop against. I hear bead blasting is the best but a good once over with a Scotch-brite works too.
kewl Hey HFDI - Thanks for the follow up. That makes sense. I'll be breaking them in on one of the access roads at Daytona...seeing as hopw we're currently in the middle of a 9-14" blizzard here in Detroit. Gixxerrider - I ran EDC HH's before. I was going to switch to Vesrah or Performace Friction, but I wanted to get the pads installed ahead of time, and good 'ole EBC's was what was available...besides, I could get them at cost, so...;-) I 'fergot about the about the scotch brite...I'll have to remember to do that before I break them in. BTW - is this Bob "DevilRedR6?"
Hey Doug - did you race MGP this past season? I'm trying to rmember anyone I know named Doug with #40....
I've always ran EBC HH's kit pads and the break in was pretty simple for me. I went out in a practice and ran 2 laps at half-speed, where I got on the brakes pretty good in every turn. Then I came off the track and let the brakes cool. After that, they were good to go. I did my share of quick stoppies (still keeping the rear tire on the ground) in the pits on my way out to the track. Probably for the psychological confirmation that the pads were ready to work more than anything else. - eddie
Moose is a great guy, but one time I asked him for F3 pads and he tried giving me 3 different sets of pads he thought would work, but didn't. I don't think so Moose.
You should know, you were in our garage . I opted for the 2 digit # this year, a lot easier to fit on the bike.
HFD1Motorsports states the EBC break in procedure correctly. Glass bead blasting the rotors will help remove old pad material when switching brands but it is nearly impossible to be certain that all material has been removed. It may look like the material has been removed to the naked eye but the only way to be certain that there will be no transfer between old and new is to start with a fresh set of rotors. Scotchbrite may make you feel better but won't do much, probably better that nothing though
