1. This site uses cookies. By continuing to use this site, you are agreeing to our use of cookies. Learn More.

Detached Garage - Electrical Input

Discussion in 'General' started by omatter34, Mar 28, 2022.

  1. omatter34

    omatter34 Well-Known Member

    For all you electricians and those of you who have been through a garage build, looking for some input. Finally finished building my garage and am starting to get bids for electrical. I attached the floor plan for reference. Garage is roughly 27 x 64 with 17' ceilings. The front left will house the 5th wheel and front right is for the boat. Current plan is for 6 20amp duplex receptacles on each long wall and 5 across the back where the shop will be. There will also be a 50amp outlet on the front left wall to hook up the camper. Lighting will be 6 400-500 watt high hats. Also getting boxes put in for 2 industrial ceiling fans. Outside will be 2 lights on front to light up the driveway and two on the right side to light the yard. What am I missing? Thoughts on current plans? I'm not planning ona welder or lift anytime soon, so I would address that in the future as needed.
     

    Attached Files:

  2. Wheel Bearing

    Wheel Bearing Professional low sider

    Several 240 drops for A/C, welders, or anything like that.
     
  3. omatter34

    omatter34 Well-Known Member

    A couple pictures for reference
    20211201_164913~2.jpg 20220227_182535~2.jpg
     
  4. pickled egg

    pickled egg There is no “try”

    Ditch your lighting plans and put in 4-lamp LED ready T8 open strip fixtures. 3000w of lighting load is obscene with what's available today.

    Two fans in that span seems insufficient. Three if not four.

    Finished walls? Trying to get wiring inside the walls and not surface mounted?
     
    lazlo likes this.
  5. omatter34

    omatter34 Well-Known Member

    I did a bad job of describing lighting? Plan would be for LEDs that are equivalent to 400-500w each, so what would that be 120 watt led? Does that make a difference on your suggestion? No plans to ever finish the walls honestly, so all conduit will be exposed.
    I'm in Florida too if that matters for any suggestions.
    The fans I was planning to get the 8-10' industrial fans.
     
  6. pickled egg

    pickled egg There is no “try”

    Oh. Big Ass Fans. I thought you were talking like 52" industrials, not INDUSTRIALS! :D

    Personally, I prefer the T8 tubes. One goes to shit, you're out $7 to replace it. One of these high wattage high bay LED fixtures go out, you've got a big fucking dark spot and a big fucking replacement cost. If you're not comfortable installing, that adds even more cost.

    If you're doing exposed conduit, just do what you want for now and address anything more you want when you want it.
     
  7. GRH

    GRH Well-Known Member

    Maybe add a surface mount sub panel on the opposite side of the building from your main panel to give you some options down the road
    Not power related but I'd pull 2 Cat6 cables to each corner of the building to give you some PoE security camera options
     
    BigBird and omatter34 like this.
  8. DBConz

    DBConz Registered Idiot

    i just recently had my detached garaged rewired for electrical. you'll want to plan to have switched boxes for lighting and power tools around all sides of your bike lift(s) and boxes up top on constant power for battery tenders. then you'll need some constant power boxes along the walls and bench(es). dont forget a constant power box for your garage openers.

    i didnt bother with PoE in mine. i used a constant power box to run a wifi access point, which then connects my cameras which are also on constant power boxes.

    only boxes i have on switched power were the ones dedicated for the lights.
     
    omatter34 likes this.
  9. sheepofblue

    sheepofblue Well-Known Member

    So as stated 220V outlet in addition to the RV outlet. Consider the chance of a car lift also. Figure out where you want the GFI outlet or breaker as I think you have to have at least one (if not all). Also where is the outlets for the garage door openers.
     
    omatter34 likes this.
  10. omatter34

    omatter34 Well-Known Member

    Doors are chain hoist.
     
  11. YamahaRick

    YamahaRick Yamaha Two Stroke Czar

    Amazing how that trailer (somewhat) makes your almost 30,000 ft^3 garage look small!
     
    BigBird likes this.
  12. omatter34

    omatter34 Well-Known Member

    I said the same thing the first time I pulled it in there. If I could have gone bigger, I would have, but the property line and septic wouldn't allow it.
     
  13. TWF2

    TWF2 2 heads are better than 1

    I would run all conduits up/down and not across walls.
     
    omatter34 likes this.
  14. Rdrace42

    Rdrace42 Almost Cheddar

    Jealous of the ceiling height. I'm stuck with 9' due to max building height. I'm hopefully doing a 22' x 64' this spring. What did the concrete cost you?
     
  15. omatter34

    omatter34 Well-Known Member

    My block and concrete was all done by the same contractor. It's also hard to tell in the pictures I posted but the back of the building has a 5' stem wall, so quite a bit of work had to be done to to prep for the slab to even be poured. That said, from dirt to having 17' block walls on the slab was about $65k.
     
    BigBird likes this.
  16. pickled egg

    pickled egg There is no “try”

    Oh hell, I never even looked at the pics. Block walls, duh, of course everything is surface mounted conduit.

    Go nuts as your needs evolve. With the prices of things right now, I would do the minimum I needed and wait for sanity to return.
     
    omatter34 likes this.
  17. NemesisR6

    NemesisR6 Gristle McThornbody

    Why do you need a full service 50-amp when the camper is parked in the garage? I could maybe see a 30-amp if you were working on something like the AC and needed some extra juice, but if it's just sitting and maintaining the house batteries just about every rv doesn't need more than a regular 110 15-20amp receptacle to keep the batteries maintained or maybe run a dehumidifier here in the South.
     
    Wheel Bearing likes this.
  18. Rdrace42

    Rdrace42 Almost Cheddar

    Well, that's actually not bad all things considered. Very different construction for me, as I'm doing a 4' foundation wall with 8" above grade, then stick built 2x6. I'm guessing the concrete and excavation is going to cost me $55k-ish. Trying to get the entire thing done for under $100k with me doing everything but the concrete. If I had done this a year ago, I'd be $30k less. Why block wall btw? You in a hurricane area?
     
  19. omatter34

    omatter34 Well-Known Member

    Honestly just figured why not, lol. I'd rather have it and not need it then need it and not have it. Also, sometimes when the whole family is in town, some of them stay in the camper.
     
    NemesisR6 likes this.
  20. omatter34

    omatter34 Well-Known Member

    Yes, I'm in the Tampa area in Florida, but mostly just wanted it the same construction as my house.
     

Share This Page