Anyone know why the front sprocket nut is so damn hard to get off? It has red locktight! I've got my big wrench and can't budge it. I'm doing a motor swap on my 04 gsxr 600 b/c it's blown. Do I need to remove that front sprocket nut? The manual says so. If so, how the heck do I get that suck off there???
You do not need to take off front sprocket to get motor out, but it makes it easier, as you need to slightly force the chain past the out put shaft to clear from the motor, OR, You and 2 other people slowly lower motor to ground whilst one of you feeds the chain off the counter shaft OR Poor a shite load of Boiling water all over the sprocket nut, this should help to crack the locktight
thanks TT. I was gonna remove it b/c I wasn't sure if most used motors will come with the sprocket. I imagine they would...the motors I'm shopping for all have the sprocket cover case on but I can't tell. Do you think most motors will come with the front sprocket?
Rattle gun. An air-powered one, or a very good electric one. That nut was what inspired me to go out and buy one :up:
Remove the back wheel, pull the chain foward near the sprocket as far a possible that will give you the room you need to get the chain out of the way this is an extension of what IOMTT said.
Man I feel your pain. I just got a 06 gsxr600 and I've stripped FOUR screws on that bike already. Whoever put my bike together used TONS of locktite.
Yes all of what they said...Impact gun.... Just in case you need I have a stock front sprocket and nut and also a 520 conversion -1.... I also have a motor which includes whatever you want.... (Just in case you haven't found one)
Another pain... So I'm ready to drop her out except the engine mounts have a "thrust adjuster" which requires a "special too" - a suzuki wrench which is $70! Has anyone seen these? It's on the frame bolts behind the motor. How do I get those off of there? Does anyone have that wrench that I can borrow? Seems like a sleazy way for Suzuki to generate revenue on a tool that you'll probably only use once.
I have an 05 800 mile turnkey motor complete w/ throttle bodies, airbox, wiring harness, ecu, rectifier, cables, radiator w/ fan, etc.... I will break this up and the Price is according to what you need.. Located in lower N.Y. 15-20 minutes north of the George Washington Bridge
Check your other thread... I just used a pair of channel locks...those nuts are not extremely tight nor should they be.....just grab a good bight , break them loose and you should be able to turn them in by hand, if not channel locks, use a vise grip If you have any questions regarding the motor or how to remove yours pm me and I will give you my number to call me...hope this helps
somewhere in my pile of papers from last season I have a copy of the registration of the bike this came out of....with the 06 finished and a ton of reciepts from that it won't be easy to find, but if it is a real necessity to someone I will dig till I find it
take a punch and a big fukkin hammer to knock the rings loose. and they the nut for the spacer should be a 17mm or 19mm
I believe it's a 19mm 6 point mid to deep socket (you'll need a 6 point so you don't round off the edges). Oh, and you don't have to run those "thrust" adjuster lock nuts if you don't want to. Just locktite the thrust adjuster (the 6 point bits) and keep an eye on them.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------- I used a 1" dia X 6" long pipe nipple bought at Homie depot (Like $3.00) Took a grinder to the end to make a mickey moused "Spanner socket" that fit in the tang holes pretty damn perfectly. Like mentioned, I think the torque spec is like 36 ft#s so using that "tool" and channel locks took it right off. If ya want to get really creative, weld a onld 1/2" or 3/8" drive socket (Whichever fits your torque wrench) to the tool and use it to torque the nut back in. Ya its ghetto, but it works and save ya a few bucks from buying the factory tool.:up:
