D675R Keyless Ignition and K-Tech DDS35 rebuild

Last night I was doing some tinkering and decided I'd like to go keyless on my new-to-me '12 Daytona. The gas cap is already swapped, and I've rerouted the seat latch to be accessible from outside without the key. As for the ignition, I spent some time with the wiring diagram last night and I **THINK** I know which wires to bridge for it to work properly. I cant bring myself the spend $70 on a piece of kit that just bridges some wires together (it would be one thing if this bike was going to see the street again, but I doubt it ever will) but I also don't want to start hacking up the harness for a session of trial and error. I know people are wary about putting that information out there publicly on the forum, so does anyone know which wires should be bridged and can confirm that I have chosen the right ones in a private message?

In the process of routing the seat latch cable I noticed the reservoir of my rear shock is leaking. I was hoping not to have to service it until I had the suspension somewhat sorted but it looks like I need to take care of this. I'd like to DIY since I don't plan on changing shim stacks for now. I'll bring it to a local shop to have it charged once I'm done. Has anyone come across a decent tutorial for this shock? I'd prefer not to go into it blind.

Thanks!

 

I'm a DIY guy and do almost everything myself, but shocks require several specialty tools that makes it not worth it to me to change out myself. I'd go with a suspension shop. Having the various spare seals, pistons, shims on hand is another good reason to use a shop rather than have it apart to find out you need something else. Forks are a great DIY with just a couple specialty tools, but shock just aren't worth it to me.

For the harness, I'd recommend contacting SportBikeTrackGear on here to get a price on the woodcraft key eliminator. Sourcing the connectors yourself is doable, but a pain. Hacking the harness isn't hard exactly, but definitely not something to try going in bling. If you look in the shop manual, you can find the wiring diagram which shows you what the various key positions do to bridge what wires. You only have to consider the OFF and RUN positions for a race bike, and you can forget about the lighting circuits, so you're just re-wiring the run wire through the kill switch rather than the ignition key. I'm not sure why people are hesitant sometimes to post the wiring diagrams for that, I know what you mean though and have seen it on forums...but a thief isn't going to sit there and do this to steal a bike, they're just going to take the bike in a truck/van or use a screwdriver/hammer. I've just always done it myself though, so don't have any diagrams drawn up, sorry. That all said, the wire locations on the D675 are far apart, so the Woodcraft harness is super-handy on this bike to have the wires come wrapped and with nice connectors, and I bought it for mine rather than wire something up like I usually do on my race-bikes. It also wires up all the various circuits that aren't necessary on a race-bike, but those circuits can be handy to tap power into for things like piggy-back systems (Bazzaz, Power Commander, etc.)

Anyways, that's all the advice I can offer, sorry it's not direct. If you're able to tackle these jobs, more power to you!

 

It would be nice to tap into that power for my lap timer.... I do think I've sorted which ones need to be bridged for it to work based on the wiring diagram in the Haynes manual I have, just wanted to confirm. I didn't consider that the power commander I have may be tapped into some of the lighting circuitry for power, so I'll have to look into that. I guess I could just use a wire tap to test and tape it up if i do it wrong.

I've read that replacing the seals on most shocks isn't a huge deal. K-tech sells the service kit which is super reasonable ($35), and I'm not averse to buying some specialty tools so long as they aren't specific to only this shock. The service is $175, so if the tools cost around that or less, I figure I'm ahead of the game. If its really a massive PITA I may send it out, was hoping to learn something by doing this myself.

 

Oh that's nice of K-Tech to offer a service kit. Very cool.

 

Bleeding K-Tech DDS shocks is sort of a pain. If you don't get all of the air out, it won't work properly. I'd recommend having it done professionally.

 

I echo this.

They canbe difficult to bleed and are really affect by air in them. Vacuum bleeding is highly advisable.

 

Man, this is depressing. I was hyped on learning something new. Looks like I'm sending it out.

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I may have a woodcraft keyless ignition NIB in my basement. If I do, you can have it for shipping cost.

 

That would be amazing, thanks! I'll send you a DM now.

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I don’t know where you are located, but there are factory trained K-Tech guys in Florida and Arizona. I can send you info I could do it, but I am moving in January.

 

I'm actually in Fort Lee, NJ. About an hour from the Orient Express HQ on Long island.

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Sorry, just checked and looks like I gave that box of spare parts to the guy who bought my Daytona.

 

No sweat - I appreciate the thought!

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