I cut my new chain a little short...dumb mistake. For a streetbike, how squidly would it be to use two masterlinks? I can order another rivet type and use two of those, or use the two that came with the chain..one rivet and one clip. This is for a streetbike if that matters. OR....anyone need a new 530 Regina O-ring chain with 100 links for a great discount???
Did you see the “adding a 2nd master link to make chain longer.. is this bad??” thread? My opinion (hey everyone has ‘em ) as long as you only use rivit links, not clip type you’ll be ok. I always put the new chain on the sprockets with the axle where I want it before cutting. But you already know that now.
Ouch!! Ehhh..what the hey, the truth stings a bit sometimes....as long as we learn something or teach others something...It'll be OK...I think. Ride Safe, or not.
My main problem was with the cutting wheel on my dremmel. I thought I snuck in and cut the pins ok, but I damaged the shoulder where the O-ring sits and had to go to the next link...time to invest in a chain cutter!
On a similar note, I changed my gearing on my SV from 45 T rear to a 44 T. Now the chain has 2" of slack, even with the adjusters all the way back. But each section of the chain looks like it's an inch long, so if I take one of those out, I'm wondering if I'm going to have a short chain. Any rules of thumb about this? I gotta have this fixed by Friday - RoadAmerica. Thanks,
Removing one link should work...since I had the problem, I invesed in a chain breaker from EMGO and then a motion pro rivit tool. Have yet to use it as the clip type seems fine on my bike for the forseeable future. I would remove a link or two, remember that the masterlink adds one more so it should be fine. BTW, I ruined the axle nut on my Aprilia drilling it and hosed the threads on the axle as well. I ordered new parts but they took weeks to come in. I used a subaru axle nut and cut new threads on the axle and wired it tight, never to be removed unitl my new stuff came in. I had back to back race weekends and had to stick with it and an ever stretching chain...I have some pics while decelerating and my chain looks like an S...had like 4 inches of slack.
A good rivet tool should also be able to break a chain. You may be able to return the chain breaker. Can't remember which rivet tool I have, but it's heavy duty. I don't grind the head off of the rivets anymore, I just push 'em out.
I used to keep three chains in my trailer. All cut for different sprocket ratios. Usally if I went up few teeth in the rear I would have to change chains too. But, I did like to keep my axle close to the same position for all ratios. Nice way to go but expensive.
Quick question about the Motion Pro rivet tool. I have not opened it yet and was wondering if anyone thinks it could handle the Regina rivet masterlink. I would up just using the clip type because I broke my C clamps trying to wind it on. Thanks, Ed
Is that the $125 or so Motion Pro rivet tool? If so, it can handle practically any chain that you will encounter on a bike. To rivet, the tool works by pushing the rivet into the chain (to a specific depth) and then by mushrooming the head (again, by a specific amount). Any rivet tool has to be able to perform both of these functions.
Thats the one...i need to open it and check it out. Does it come with rivets, or do you use the masterlink that comes with the chain? thanks!
The first time you do it, buy two rivet masterlinks (the shop might need to order them anyway). One to go to school on (and mess up), and one to get it right. It'll be real easy to get right once you have a feel for it.
