I have a 05 636 that I need to check up on the tranny. It has trouble going into second with the bike on the stand and running. It shifts fine on the track so who knows what I will find. My question is this: if i get into changing many parts, why not put the close ratio tranny out of the 600 in it? I can't see why the whole tranny would'nt fit. Can anyone validate or deny that? And can anyone tell me how much this will effect the bike?
Do these Kawasakis still have the positive neutral finder? With the bike on the stand spin the back wheel by hand then see if it goes in to second gear.
I've done that and still have the problem. This post was not so much to find my prob. The bike has been track use only for the past three years and the tranny has not been touched since I built it in 07. It needs attention and I am fine with that, I have got my money out of it. I want to know if I have anything to gain from the close ratio (if easily done) when I do rebuild.
The close ratio RR transmission drops right in. I have run both not really sure which i prefer. Only thing i have really had to replace in the trans is the shift forks. They need to be fresh and straight.
Not zx6r specific...but I ran my hawk 650 with and without a close ratio. Based on that experience it depends on the track. In my case (and I think with all close ratio's) 1st gear was really tall, and our main track had you down into first a lot...so in those places I was at a disadvantage. I also found myself "running out of rpm's" and wasn't able to change the sprockets to solve it. I went back to the regular trans. your milage may vary. In the zx6r case, I don't know that the 6rr tranny is any more durable...thus far both my 636's have been great, thankfully.
The RR close ratio box SUCKS for those years! Honestly the WR 636 boxes gear ratios work WAY better. The CR box was designed for fast flowing euro tracks and most the tracks we have in the US are not like this. Everyone we built with an RR hated the oem CR box ratios. The issue is the shimming. you will have to have someone that kNOWS what they are doing reshim it and replace some gears...but the shimming is the trick. Good luck
Thanks a lot. Interesting about the shimming. I'm not sure I would have thought of or seen that right away. I expect to find a torn up fork but unless it was painfully obvious, shims might have slipped by me. (fer a while anyway). But I am familiar with what you are talking about, a few years ago I used to drag race 185+ HP KAWI H2's. Its funny how that 185 used to be such a big number!!! It was hell on cogs so we were always building gearsets on both shafts.
the thickness of washers between gears. Thats one of the issues these engines had..but if you go too tight...bigger issues.
willing to share any other issues these have? Your experience is greatly appreciated. I have run between 8-12 trackdays per year on this thing for the past three years and plan on entering my first race this year. Want to be sure I don't run into a major issue in the middle of the season.
search the tech section, many threads on those bikes, i and others have inputted. The lower end are junk IMO...but some will disagree. I have 4 636 blown engines in here laying dead (2 street stockers, 1 race done by another shop but only top end, 1 we did top end on and lower end took shit, customer didnt want to upgrade rods/lower end) GREAT engines right up to the point they ventilate the cases :down: keep it as stock as possible...good pipe, mapping and enjoy 120rwhp with some good tq for a while. WARM up engine/oil and dont abuse.
