Caliper rebuild? Brake Help

So with regular cleaning and annual rebuild, there’s not enough lever free play to bother u, even at race pace, am I correct?

 

my lever will get soft for two reasons: low pads or scratched up pistons. so maintaining clean and fresh caliper hardware will consistently keep a solid lever feel. but i also just ditched the RCS19. that's not an ideal master for track use. a 19x20 would be better.

 

Cool, thanks for you feedback man!

 

Also, what rebuild kit do you use? OEM? Ebay?

 

OEM always

 

there are metal drilled caliper pistons, but not for $400

 

Just googled, nah, [emoji28]


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It all comes down to preference on how you want your brakes to feel. Zoran from TWF has the spacers for the r6 calipers. They are like $25 or something. We have had great luck with the r6 calipers on our Gsxr600 endurance bike and sprint bikes. Just clean the pistons and inspect the seals after every 4hr race. We have not had to replace any parts on the calipers in the last three years and run at expert podium pace. We run motul 660 fluid and vesrah rjlxx pads. This setup is easy and predictable to initiate braking and trail brake with, we do not experience brake fade with this setup either.

 

If you want to and you’re going to be at summit point next weekend stop by the MotorDrone pits and grab some brake levers.

 

My current set up is Accossato 19*18, Vesrah
XX, stock calipers and rotors, rbf600. TBH, fade isn’t my greatest issue, what bothers me is that free play before pressure really hits. But still, thanks for ur valuable info!


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Hahaha, I’ve been grabbing people’s lever whenever I got a chance. I’m in Midwest, so nowhere near you, but thanks for ur offer.


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I fought that issue on my SV for a while. Changed to Magura MC, no fix. Changed fluid to RBF 660, no fix. Changed to CBR calipers, no fix. Finally changed the rotors and it was “OMG fixed at last!”

 

Was it a warped rotor? Did u experience this issue even when the front wheel is moving (so the warped the rotor push pads apart too much) or even when standing still? I’d thought if Im having this problem even when standing still, warped rotor might not be the (only) problem.


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Also, U used the CBR1000RR Tokiko monoblocks right? They’re not direct bolt on correct? Where can I get the spacers for that?


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Nope, older Nissin CBR calipers that I bought used and rebuilt. CBR929, early CBR600, and a few other models use them. SVRacerparts sell adaptor plates for SVs, but won't work for a 600/750.
Yes, I believe the stock rotors were a bit warped, but also might have been a bit thin, but measured within spec. The problem was there a bit without the wheel moving, but much worse when you moved the wheel by hand and even worse when riding.
The aftermarket wave rotors immediately fixed the issue in all circumstances. I briefly locked the front wheel on my first track day with the new setup it was such a big difference. Fortunately, 14 years of track day experience didn't have me panic and just eased off a bit and trail braked into the turn with no issues. Even made the apex.

 

This thread is (still) a good discussion.

Agreed that the tokiko's are no comparison to, in my case, the brembo calipers on my other bike. The brembos are "on it" whereas the tokiko's wanna have a discussion before getting the job done. Lol.

Isn't the performance relative, meaning tokiko's are not bad but better options exist? Or is it the difference between, say, being able to brake 1-2 zones later between the OEM and aftermarket options?

I am reading that, in addition to the obvious braking upgrades (brake pads and brake lines), the calipers and MC should go hand-hand when upgrading either.

 

Don't go RCS then...
A billet brembo is ridiculous. But expensive.

 

In a perfectly operating brake system, pistons retract. That may result in more lever pull. In a perfect system, they also all engage evenly and easily. It's easy to make both happen, but most racers care more about the color of their knee pucks than the effiency of their brakes.

And friends don't let friends buy an RCS. Consider this my public service announcement.

 

I’ve always thought if the pads wore evenly the system was working properly even thought pistons may not be moving at the same rate when disassembled. Is this not correct or true? I’m not sure I’ve ever seen them move exactly at the same rate when taken apart.

 

Ok, I’m only a TD rider, let’s not get too crazy here. But I do have a question about brembo MC. Does the billet one have the amount of adjustable like the Corsa Corta? If not, r u familiar with how the billet “setup”?


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