Hey Lever Jr., we're going to have to make a new ruling here that you can start a thread asking people how to build something until you show proof that the previous project has been completed, or at the very least attempted.
it is!! this is the pulsejet project. It's partly finished, I had this part on the way, but USPS lost it! so now I have to get it machined locally because the project is due Dec 11
The rest of your "Rocket" will be done Wednesday afternoon. Call me Tuesday afternoon, by then I will be back in phone reach.
Go find the local Vo-Tech school in your area, and talk to the guys who teach machining and metal working courses. I'll bet they'd be willing to help you. And it probably wouldn't cost you much, if anything. Once you've done that, go take the courses yourself. Anyone who does stuff like this needs to do his own machining, or at least understand the basics. And then go to engineering school - from your posts you seem like a natural for a mechanical engineering program. Don't even think about the liberal arts. You're a natural born nerd, son (I am too; I'm an electrical engineer). Accept your destiny. :wow:
There are plenty of ways to learn and to do your own machining without buying the equipment. You probably wouldn't even know what to buy, much less how to use it without learning first. That said, there are lots of opportunities to learn how to machine at a place like Georgia Tech, and it's a valuable skill for an engineer. It isn't in the curriculum, but the opportunities are available. I chose a co-op that made me work in a machine shop for my first term. Then, back at Tech, I had 24 hour access to the Formula SAE machine shop, and daytime access to the Mech. Engineering machine shop. As for those parts, they shouldn't be that hard to have done, although they are missing some dimensions. I'm hesitant to say I could do it, but I might be able to help in a pinch if there are no other options. I do have one question, why would you change to a tapered thread? If you want it to seal, it will have to be competely tightened, which would eliminate any adjustability in the part.
sorry, I meant I need the back thread 1/8" npt. so I can connect the copper tubing carrying the fuel. so, everything else should be 1/4"-20, excpet for lock nut/adapter which would be 1/4"-20 in the front and 1/8" NPT in the back.
