"Exact replica replacement bodywork (this includes the tailsection) may be used on machines equipped with bodywork from the factory. If the stock bodywork includes air-ducting tubes they may be removed. If they are utilized they must be stock or exact replica parts. Solo seat cowlings may be added when not supplied by OEM. If an aftermarket tailsection is used that incorporates a solo seat cowling when one is not offered by the manufacturer, the tailsection must conform to the shape and size of the stock bodywork that is provided by the manufacturer. The solo seat cowling portion of said bodywork must start at the position of the stock bodywork on the rear and rise to no more than 1.5 inches above the seat when measured from the top of the bodywork to the top of the seat on a stock motorcycle. The shape of the bodywork must conform to the shape of the seat (no huge rises in the middle etc.). A “Superbike Seat” is allowed (i.e. the seat is molded into the tailsection). Tinted windscreens are allowed, double bubble type windscreens are not. Windscreens must be the exact same dimensions as stock except for thickness. Windscreens may not be less than 75% the thickness of a stock screen" I have a sv650. Everything fits into SS other than the front body work. It is an aftermarket headlight kit. Would this break the ss rules? There is a sv650n which kinda almost looks like it. Since it says its ok to remove the headlight. Can I just remove my headlight and little fairing and run it like that? Also, what tires do people use for 650ss? I wish we had the choices the 180 rears have.
you'll need a bellypan. otherwise you CAN run it completely naked by removing the headlight and adding a number plate. most people run full bodywork, often from GSXR's.
If you will look further down in the rules under LWT rules you will notice an asterisk that states there are no bodywork restrictions in that class. You can fit any bodywork you can make work as long as you have a bellypan meeting the 5-quart rule.
Yea...you can run slicks in ss classes now. You can whatever bodywork as long as its affixed in a safe manner. I use zip ties.....seriously. I run Continental DOT's regardless of ss/sb classes. If it rains, you can still get along pretty good....not so much on slicks though.
I don't think there is a good DOT 160 tire, but there could be. When Tyler raced the SV, we used Bridgestone slicks. They make a 165 slick, I believe, that was designed for 250 2 strokes that worked great. We had a rear F3 Honda wheel on ours. If you have a stock rear and want to go with the F3 or 600 rear wheel, go to http://www.twfracing.com/ and get your spacers from Zoran. He is a great SV source of information and so is that website. You are in S. Cal and so am I, so I will tell you what I learned in the few months Tyler rode one. Good Luck, rob Some people also upgrade to a 600 rear wheel and run 180's, but you are pulling around a bigger tire.
Welcome to our addiction. Talk to a race tire dealer most brands have dots and slicks for SVs without changing wheels. You may find this a dumb comment but seriuosly consider your very nice SV - buy a used race SV all set up for $2-3 K and use the difference for track days and schools and registrations. To be really race ready your street bike will need safety wired, most guys replace rear shock and have front fork revalved with emulators plus add body work. Bottom line you could spend over $2K getting your street bike race ready for the price of buying a fully prepped used race SV.