Anyone know if the stock kill switch wiring can handle all the current that used to go through the ignition switch? I'd like to relocate the ignition switch to the shelf and just use the kill switch cuz it kinda snapped in two when the previous owner A) Had the bike stolen. B) The thief flipped it over backwards Or do you have to keep the ignition switch for Superstock/Supersport?
I would not want to trust it to carry it all. I ran a toggle for the ign.by the seat and left the kill switch to do its job.
OK, I have two options. I just created one "good" stock ignition switch out of two "bad" ones. This probably cost me about $1,500 cuz I drilled a hole in my finger (and bone) and am waiting for the bills to come in! This will work for the first practice day. I prefer to wire a switch near the seat per the suggestion. What current rating should I buy?
20 amps is plenty just look for one that has a good detent to it (snaps good) radio shack has plenty for cheap. i drilled the snoot out of my finger when some clown messed the head up on the tamperproof screw and the drill broke and I stabbed the broken bit in deep ouchy!
I'm going home to put an amp probe on mine now that you guys got me worried. The only thing left on my bike (2000 R6) that draws anything is the fuel pump. I figured the kill switch would handle that... I guess I can always wire in a relay to carry the load instead of the switch. If anyone is interested, I'll let you know how much current is being drawn thru my kill switch. tom
you are feeding the relays and the ecu and the fuel pump ign. system. I like to be anal about the saftey kill system it has to work when needed..
Of course you are right about the safety kill switch needing to work every time. I figured no better way to kill the bike than to kill all power from the battery. No more relays on my bike. I was thinking the ecu and the primary side of the ing. was going to draw next to nothing. The fuel pump I don't know for sure, but was hoping was not much current. Damnit, I thought I was done playing with the wiring. I guess I better think about re-doing some stuff. tom
relays keep the total current load down think about it a little relay winding takes way less current than the fuel pump does
I'm not arguing with you, you are right about the relay(s). Long story, but alot of the original wiring and relays (including the safety that used to power the fuel pump) were not working when I got the bike. No problem I figured, and pretty much started from scratch and wired it up. Works good in the garage, but after reading this and thinking more about it, I guess I better do things a little bit different. tom
That's EXACTLY what I did. The salvage switch arrived with one of the taperproof screws partially drilled off-center. In my attempt to center the hole I snapped the bit and drilled the finger. By the next morning the finger was infected. Now I have a drilled tendon and a few bone chips floating around but thanks to antibiotics I will live. Remember- Always sterilize your drill bits prior to use!
