1988-1992 Gsxr 750 build oil cooled

Ok,
I need some help. I'm starting to build an oil cooled gixxer
And need advice on the best way to go.
What I have now
1-1988 frame,motor,swing arm rims
1-1992 mostly complete bike minus the frame
And front end due to it had two massive cracks!
I'm not sure of the condition of each motor at this time
But the 92 runs (but poorly) seams like the carbs need cleaning

Questions what are the best options for fork?
1993-95 ? Are they to heavy ?
1996-1999 are they better ?
What is involved in the swap?
2000-2003 lighter but are the forks to short?
Swing arm
93-95 bolt on?
600 cc gsxr ?
Shocks
Rebuild the 92
Later years bolt right on but which is the best ?
Carbs. Are the mikuni carbs worth it ?

Any ideas or help would be appreciated
Thanks guys

 

Gsxr 92

2nd bike

 

The only GSXR info that I KNOW regards the SRAD.
Forks: Model year 2001 GSXR1000 forks are 10mm longer than SRAD forks. Also, front wheels with 6 bolt 320mm rotors swap, but you need custom spacers to go from SRAD 600/750 forks to the 1000 forks. Axles are the same diameter from 750 to 1000, unsure on 600 axle diameter.
Swingarm: The SRAD 600 swingarm is about an inch shorter than the SRAD 750 swingarm (and the 750 swinger is braced), but are identical in other dimensions (600 and 750 wheels swap back and forth with ease).

 

How much do you want to spend?
Race or street?
Do you want to be up & running immediately, or next summer?
If I understand what you have, & running sooner rather than later:
Use 88 frame (lighter) & motor (single lobe cams), the '92 carbs (completely cleaned, new bowl gaskets, set the floats, etc), swingarm (stiffer, better adjusters), & forks.
The triple tree bolts right in, install new All Balls bearings while in there (app $20). '88 rims should bolt right in.
All the bodywork will mount to either frame, but the later stuff has bigger side vents.
What do you have for exhaust? All 88-92 750 stuff works, 1100's are longer due to taller engine. Anything Yoshi is good, D&D also.
I wouldn't try to chase anything too strange.

If you want to upgrade the forks:
I would go with the '00-03 GSX-R 750. Slides right into the 92 triple, same size clip-ons (50 mm), BUT you also need the brakes & rim.
Run the tops flush with the upper, adjust to your liking.

Shock: either stocker will make a nice doorstop. Good luck finding a Fox on Ebay, they do occasionally pop up, but will need a rebuild.
Better to find a Penske from a newer model & adjust it down.
Talk with a real suspension guy, Fluidology, CTR, ThermosMan, etc.
At some point, early 2000's somewhere, shock design changed & the springs got 1" shorter.
Try Gixxer forums for what newer one bolts in, but lengths are different.

Best thing about these bikes is the interchange-ability of Gixxer parts.

I would avoid the 93-95 stuff, it's all heavy & not very available.
Stick with the '96 & newer.

Another brake option, with the 92 forks, 6 pot Tokico's from a 96-03 ZX-7R bolt right on, 'Busa 1st gens should be the same.
That is more brake than you need on the street though.

You will obviously put fresh oil in it, stick with conventional 10w40. I highly recommend Shell Rotella, yes the diesel truck oil.
Just type it into your favorite search engine & read on.
These engines have a high pressure design, so any leak will become obvious, & hence stick with the thicker oil.
HiFlo filters from any bike shop work great.

Keep us posted, & plenty of pics, too.

 

I'm looking to get the best bang for the buck right now.
The bike will be just for racing and track
Is like to do a track day before it snowS but it's not critical


Exhaust one has ssr2 which is in excellent condition but sounds baffled
The other has a beat up VH exhaust

Both front forks are junk so i need new ones regardless

As far as the engines you think the 88 is better ?

Right now I can get a full front end of a 99 and rear wheel for 200$
Or 1994 full bike for 500 with 12k ?

I also have a 2003 front end but the mono block brakes might not sit well with the vintage crowd

 

2nd pic

 

Radial mount brakes are the big no-no for V6 & 7. The master cylinder, I believe, was settled as ok for V7.
I have no knowledge of how the 99's will fit, PSCook might, so you'll have to measure.

Hard to pass up a whole bike for $500, but as I said, heavy & hard to find.
If it runs, do your track days on that while you build the other.
Keep in mind that is V7 only; the '88 chassis keeps you fine for 6HW
Suzuki basically took the oil-cooled engine & made it water cooled.

For track use any fork set will need servicing & correct springs, $200/labor & new seals +/-, springs from Sonic if you want to source them, were around $100 the last time I looked.
No idea who you have available up there, I think CTR would be the closest to you (TN) of the ones I know. I've used Jon, he does great work, add in shipping costs both ways.
Pack securely as with anything valuable.
Junk as in bent, or just old & unknown condition of internals?
Depending on your skill level, with the '03's you could just do oil & springs now, replace the comp & rebound components as budget allows.
$$ spent on suspension is your best return, & done once it just needs the occasional refresh.
Budget for a shock, the best you can get. It doesn't matter how much hp you have if the bike won't handle.

Engine- long term the '88 has more build potential due to the single lobe cams. Do your internet homework.
If you just want to get on track, & it runs fine, go with the '92. It does rate slightly more hp. Both are dependable as long as you throw fresh oil in there, but definitely check the valve clearance.
Again, I don't know your long term plans.
Track days- throw together what works & get out there.
Building a V6HW racer- take my suggestions, but any guy with an 1100 is going to walk away on any straight piece of asphalt.

Exhaust, the SS2R sounds fine for your purposes. Pull the end cap to check the baffling.
Good luck!

 

This is a great thread. I don't have a GSXR - singles are my favorite - but this has me thinking you I should build one . . . .

Cheers

Dave

 

Too bad I am so far from all the good, old bike racing. Nothing up here for my old bikes, and I am trying to find a new home for this one, but no bites up here. If anyone is interested, it is an 88 750, PM wheels, rotors, and calipers. Fox shock with Fox srs link. WP forks, with unknown brand adjustable triple clamps and a braced swingarm. Dyna coils, extra oil cooler in tail, Good bodywork and tank. and an unassembled 1052/1109 motor and a ton of spare stuff.

 

Is that Troy's old bike? The one he got wrapped up with in 2002? I agree there is a gap for the older bikes, let me know if you are serious about finding track time and I can work with the rules committee. Maybe we can do for the HW bikes like we did for the orphan F2/F3's?

As far as brakes go, I really liked the four-pot Tokicos from a 600 as opposed to the six-pot (Nissin?) from the 2K1 1000. Maybe it was pad brand or compounds, but I got a lot better feel and response from the four-pot brakes. Direct bolt-on from the standard SRAD 600 forks to the 2K1 1000 inverted forks.

Ninja edit: The black bike has the brakes that I liked. I can't read/remember if they are Tokico or Nissin, but I liked the four-pot better than the six-pot. I have a set of the six-pot on a shelf if anyone is interested, just pay for shipping.

 

Yes, it is his old bike. If there were more big bikes to race with, sure, I'd be interested, but I would rather just go do a trackday than to be gridded with only one other bike or alone. I have a few other older bikes that are WERA V7HW / CMRA Classic Unlimited legal, if you are familiar with the rules for those classes. Let me know what happens, I am open for it.

 

Ok, I bought a shock from a BMW S1000rr
And the shock is a direct bolt-on. The problem
Is it feels like a 2x4 so I backed the spring preload
All the way off and it's better. My sag is at about 1"
So it seams right but the shock just seams really stiff.
The stock spring is 8.5kg ?
Is the spring too stiff ?
Is the shock not working correctly?
Should I return it or is it just me ?
Hmmmmm ?

 

Shock s1000rr and stock 1988

 

Another picture

 

A few guesses:
You are feeling the difference between a worn out doorstop & a pretty good stock shock.
Check your compression setting (the top adjuster) back that out to 1 click on.
What is 8.5 kg in #? If you are around 180 you should have a 450# spring IIRC.
Why didn't you get a shock from a newer Gixxer?
Different bikes use different ratios in the shock linkage arm. I'm pretty sure that is where the real problem is, & a different spring would be the fix.
Good luck!

 

I know some one that might be interested. PM me your asking price.

 

Take the top shock mount off and space it 'off' the frame..@10mm depending on the shock length...google it

 

Googled but found nothing definitive. A bit more info please?

Thanks
Mark

 

here ya go....build this... It was easy...7/11

 

Me likeeeeee
A little more info on the rear suspension

The complaints about the ’88’s ground clearance problem were so severe that Suzuki engineers reacted in the very next model, the 1989 GSXR750K. For $600 more ($5799), Suzuki engineers moved the shock’s top mount 4 mm lower and installed 6 mm longer fork tubes to relieve clearance problems. Stainless steel covers for the exhaust canisters, revised transmission gear ratios, a lower secondary gear ratio, a four-way adjustable brake lever, and a competent challenger from Kawasaki were all new for 1989. In Cycle World’s July 1989 comparison, the GSX-R was cheaper, 14 pounds lighter, slightly stronger on the brakes, had a much better suspension, and won. Kawasaki’s engine, however, produced a wider, more forgiving powerband. Kawasaki’s first shot at the GSX-R came pretty close to the mark, but then again, they had three years to take aim. The 1989 GSX-R continued to perform in the hands of racers. Jamie James won both the AMA Superbike and 750cc Supersport Championships for Yoshimura Suzuki. Doug Polen won the 1989 All Japan F1 Championship on a GSX-R as well.