'18 GSXR 1000 handling "tricks"

My new GSXR 1000R handles kinda "truckish" as compared to my '13 750. I didn't expect it to quite so difficult to initiate turn in. I raised the bike as far as the stock forks and shock would allow on the basis that I raised the 750 (using forks extenders) . My research so far hasn't found any data on extending the '18 1000R forks using extenders as an option. Am I missing something? (other than skill )

 

Put more weight on the nose that will make it turn faster. I know there is a million ways to do things but that is where I would start.

 

I’m running Ohlins FKR cartridges up front with 510mm from top of lower triple to center of axle. Running an Ohlins SU 363 shock.

Edit: I’m on a 2017 GSX-R1000 (non R)

 

Yoshimura appears to only have extender caps for the 17-19 base model, not the R model which has different caps. I'm guessing you'd need to run aftermarket cartridges that come with extender caps like Ohlins or K-tech, bear in mind the R-model forks are longer in length I believe, I've read that running them flush in the clamps is sufficient, but you do need to jack up the rear properly to compensate.

To jack up the rear end the only road race specific product I found was from Yosh JP, so you might have to go through RD here in the US to order it for you....you'll also have to know what length you need.

http://shop.yoshimura-jp.com/en/product/syousai.php?id=19229

Linkage rod length----Vertical rear wheel travel
142mm -----------------(stock) -
141mm -----------------2.4mm
140mm -----------------4.8mm
139mm -----------------7.2mm
138mm -----------------9.7mm

I've only found drag racing type links from Brocks or Roaring Toyz easily available to the public a little cheaper and easier. In one of his videos I remember Brock claiming that his link can be used to raise the rear end up from stock, but you might want to check with them on that. By the looks of it, doesn't seem like there's alot of room to shorten his link from the length of the OEM one, but maybe it's possible by removing or using a thinner jam nut??? But I mean looking at the difference in those Yosh links it's only 4mm from the OEM length to their shortest one their offer, so you don't need a whole lot of adjustment of the link itself so you might be able to make it work. From what I saw online the Yosh link looks to be more than twice the price of these items here.

https://brocksperformance.com/window-link-kit-adjustable-gsx-r1000-09-18/



http://www.buynowroaringtoyz.com/2017_Suzuki_GSXR_1000_Lowering_Links_p/rts727.7rt.htm

"This link will allow you to change your ride height to any level you desire lower or taller." Sounds promising, although they don't mention how much taller.

 

You really need to change the offset on that bike to make it handle better. Attack makes nice clamps for it. In lieu of that, invest in a shock with ride height adjustment and raise the rear.

If you raised the front and did not raise the rear at least as much to compensate (no provision for rear shim), you now have a truck.

 

Stock offset is 28mm. I hear most people with adjustable clamps are running 26mm (attack 4 mm insert). With 26mm offset are they still running bike high in the front and rear?
I am still at 28mm with my attack clamps but want to try something different.

 

Rear....
I am at 320 eye to eye on rear Ohlins shock. (Note you need to change to longer clevis to get to 320 mm)

Front...
I have Ohlins FKR's in my front R forks set at stock (120 mm travel) and extended fork caps.
My R forks are a couple mm below top of front attack clamps. (Some people say front should be raised another 10-15 mm higher than what I have it.

My bike handles really good but I know it can be better. It is rock solid mid corner and feels just like my 2016 GSXR 750 did.

I am really curious to see what 26mm clamp offset feels like and if bike still needs to be raised this high over stock with 26mm offset.

 

The offset makes turn in better and makes the bike more stable. Raising it makes it transition left to right much better. With the 26 mm offset, it stays very stable when ride height is higher. Our racebike was significantly taller than stock.

So yes.

 

If you convert to 130mm forks, you get closer to the height you need without pushing the tubes way down into the clamps. Contact me if you need suspension work, I'm full time at that now.

 

Yosh Japan is selling links now. They just look like different length stock Suzuki links.

http://shop.yoshimura-jp.com/en/product/syousai.php?id=19229

 

I think you missed the whole first part of my post up there

 

A big shout to RM for suspension work, he's lead on our Rick team for service and setup.

Ken

 

Interesting. I've been trying to wrap my mind around why raising the bike at both ends makes it easier to transition. And why this is favored over just raising the rear or lowering the front for that matter. It seems this geometry change is described for the gsxr platform from the 600's to the 1000's. Then you increase the trail with the lower offset triples which technically should slow down the steering and as you say make it more stable.

 

It's one of those "unfathomables"....like slower is faster or lighter longer on the brakes. It works and that's all us plebes are entitled to know.

 

Such awesome knowledge in this place!

 

In basic terms,

Youll find its to gain correct swing arm angles and anti squat to finish the corner with 200hp getting smacked into the pavement. In order to do that youll raise the rear a lot, the front needs to be raised to get the steering angles back to somewhat sane numbers.

Rasing the bike then effectively shortens the bike as well. Reducing stability. Adding trail then regains that stability.

Go back 20 years ago where 120hp and 190kg was the norm, the chassis requirements were totally different to what 200hp and 170kg needs today.

 

Ever thought of just going up on air pressure in the front?

 

this makes complete sense!

i thought it was some cog issue.

i raised the rear to set the swingarm angle on my 750 to around 9+ deg at static sag.

instead of raising the front, i reduce offset (started -3 or 4mm! and worked up) i think to regain trail, rake still decreased. i was thinking raising the whole bike might introduce weight transfer issues. but i dont know. I guess I should try it both ways, but the bike finishes nicely and goes where I want at my modest skill level. no clearance issues.

thanks for the education!

 

a steering input moves the contact patch to the opposite side of center. turn the bars left, the contact patch moves right. more trail make the contact patch move further for a given input. so adding trail increases the effectiveness of a steering input. there is a trade off with effectiveness and stability. the extra stability due to more trail makes it harder to turn the bars. but with greater effectiveness, u don't need to turn them as far.

I think there is also an effect on front wheel tracking caused by trail changes, with more trail == more effective tracking angle. this would cause a steady state motorcycle to require less steering angle for any corner. but I havent seen or bothered to do a proof for this.

raising the front also adds swingarm angle, so this all helps with the squat curve.

 

Yea!!! That was my bad I totally did not read the top part!