06-10 GSXR750 set up numbers

Discussion in 'Tech' started by Bob Miller, Feb 18, 2021.

  1. Daniel06

    Daniel06 Well-Known Member

    @ Boman, do you leave the shock in the bike with that tool? Shock comes out on the gsxr. Well, they had to come out on the stuff I was running back then such as a ktech or Penske.

    To you guys running the newer Dunlop 180/60, did that change much of the setup? I ran 190/60 dot's
     
  2. Boman Forklift

    Boman Forklift Well-Known Member

    The shock comes out and you out the shock in the tool and it lengthens it. I never owned one of those.
     
  3. JCW

    JCW Well-Known Member

    Just a few thoughts...

    When you drop the front and raise the rear, I found the bike was hard to control on hard brakes, like the rear wanted to come around.
    I agree with the rear spinning and cold tearing if set too high. Ive ruined a couple brand new rears making this mistake.
    I think the exact numbers depends on what you want the bike to do, how you ride and what track you're at. For example, is your rider hard on the gas at a particular track and running wide all the time? Is he a hard braker and crushing the front end and complaining of the rear getting loose and the bike being unstable?
    A good start is raise the rear a bit, flush the front then adjust accordingly in mm's to what you want the bike to do.
    But remember why you are doing what you are doing. Why is the rear raised? What problem does it cure?
    Why do you then raise the front, what problem have you encountered?
    If you haven't identified or encountered the problem then making a change for change sake is not super smart.

    Don't forget also that preload is just another tool to set chassis attitude and not an absolute number...

    Then there's the wheelbase...
     
    Last edited: Feb 20, 2021
  4. Gerry Gentry

    Gerry Gentry Well-Known Member

    Bob,
    As you've probably discovered, or already knew, there isn't a "one size fits all" for these bikes. General rule is they like to be raised up on both ends. In our program we measure the forks at the top triple and track how much we have pushed them down through the triples or raised based on "stock" dimensions. We run 20mm extenders on the Ohlins equipped and the Traxxion Dynamics equipped forks. There are a lot of variables and therefore the most important thing you could do is keep very detailed records of your baseline set-up, the changes you make during the sessions, and how the bike reacts (rider debrief, tires, lap times, etc.). General rule; raise the rear and the bike gets tail happy, raise the front and the bike gets harder to turn and the rear can become "planted" and over power the front. Another general rule; change/fix the front of the bike if you're having corner entry issues, change the rear if you're having corner exit issues. Now what you change gets a lot more complicated: springs, dampening, geometry, tire pressures, etc., etc. Getting educated about what the tires are showing and starting with that can help. Dave Moss is really good with that and other setup/tuning issues. He has a website with a lot of good information. We are working with him in support of our program and we are on a steep learning curve.

    Regards,
    Gerry
     
  5. Bob Miller

    Bob Miller Active Member

Share This Page