06-10 GSXR750 set up numbers

Discussion in 'Tech' started by Bob Miller, Feb 18, 2021.

  1. Daniel06

    Daniel06 Well-Known Member

    @ Boman, do you leave the shock in the bike with that tool? Shock comes out on the gsxr. Well, they had to come out on the stuff I was running back then such as a ktech or Penske.

    To you guys running the newer Dunlop 180/60, did that change much of the setup? I ran 190/60 dot's
  2. Boman Forklift

    Boman Forklift Well-Known Member

    The shock comes out and you out the shock in the tool and it lengthens it. I never owned one of those.
  3. JCW

    JCW Well-Known Member

    Just a few thoughts...

    When you drop the front and raise the rear, I found the bike was hard to control on hard brakes, like the rear wanted to come around.
    I agree with the rear spinning and cold tearing if set too high. Ive ruined a couple brand new rears making this mistake.
    I think the exact numbers depends on what you want the bike to do, how you ride and what track you're at. For example, is your rider hard on the gas at a particular track and running wide all the time? Is he a hard braker and crushing the front end and complaining of the rear getting loose and the bike being unstable?
    A good start is raise the rear a bit, flush the front then adjust accordingly in mm's to what you want the bike to do.
    But remember why you are doing what you are doing. Why is the rear raised? What problem does it cure?
    Why do you then raise the front, what problem have you encountered?
    If you haven't identified or encountered the problem then making a change for change sake is not super smart.

    Don't forget also that preload is just another tool to set chassis attitude and not an absolute number...

    Then there's the wheelbase...
    Last edited: Feb 20, 2021
  4. Gerry Gentry

    Gerry Gentry Well-Known Member

    As you've probably discovered, or already knew, there isn't a "one size fits all" for these bikes. General rule is they like to be raised up on both ends. In our program we measure the forks at the top triple and track how much we have pushed them down through the triples or raised based on "stock" dimensions. We run 20mm extenders on the Ohlins equipped and the Traxxion Dynamics equipped forks. There are a lot of variables and therefore the most important thing you could do is keep very detailed records of your baseline set-up, the changes you make during the sessions, and how the bike reacts (rider debrief, tires, lap times, etc.). General rule; raise the rear and the bike gets tail happy, raise the front and the bike gets harder to turn and the rear can become "planted" and over power the front. Another general rule; change/fix the front of the bike if you're having corner entry issues, change the rear if you're having corner exit issues. Now what you change gets a lot more complicated: springs, dampening, geometry, tire pressures, etc., etc. Getting educated about what the tires are showing and starting with that can help. Dave Moss is really good with that and other setup/tuning issues. He has a website with a lot of good information. We are working with him in support of our program and we are on a steep learning curve.

  5. Bob Miller

    Bob Miller Well-Known Member

    Thanks Gerry.
  6. Bob Miller

    Bob Miller Well-Known Member

    Okay guys i have bike together.
    My ttx is 328 eye to eye and have forks at 527 measured top lower triple to center axle. This is all but about 12mm of my ohlins caps.

    I appreciate all the help. Does this seem like a safe starting point?
  7. Gerry Gentry

    Gerry Gentry Well-Known Member

    Bob Miller likes this.
  8. Daniel06

    Daniel06 Well-Known Member

    IIMR you should be good. Mc suspension is so fun bc there are so many variables. If it runs wide, do one thing at a time. Like higher front. People shit on Dave moss, but I use his bounce technique to get rebound balance with great success. It's just an initial setting and won't make you the fasted, but a balanced front and rear is the best starting point. We ran a dunlop 190 rear on the 600's, so your tires may have different heights. Don't be set in stone on the mm's, do what the bike needs to fit your riding.
  9. Bob Miller

    Bob Miller Well-Known Member

    Ive had a few people tell me bounce test wont work on my ttx. I do follow some Dave Moss stuff.
    Seems my initial numbers may be good. I was more worried about it being a hot mess with these fork extendors. Ive lowered my other bikes front in past so
    raising whole bike is a new arena for me.
  10. Gerry Gentry

    Gerry Gentry Well-Known Member

    I agree with Daniel. Tires are a real factor. We run the Pirelli' 180/60/17 and 120/70/17 SC1's and SC2's. They are a soft carcass tire. The Dunlop's tend to be a hard carcass tire. Different feel and behavior between the two manufactures but both are really good. You'll have to tune to their behaviors. Work on the front for corner entry and the rear for corner exit. Have you checked the free sag and rider sag yet? That will give you an initial indication about how close your spring rates are.

  11. JCW

    JCW Well-Known Member

    If you like the response of the bike with a lowered front end and don't mind or don't experience the instability with braking, then your need to raise the front is less...

    If you ride the bike like this and find yourself wishing the front felt more responsive, drop the front a little at a time. And remember when you can't drop it anymore because of the above, preload is just another tool to set chassis attitude.
  12. Bob Miller

    Bob Miller Well-Known Member

    Have geometry set now trying set sag. Have 30mm Ohlins kit and .95 springs...170kb rider.
    Have 18 total turns preload to work with.
    Bike is sag a lot static...22mm and 31mm me on it. (+9mm)

    If i go in a full 18 turns the total does drop to 30mm.

    Sound about right?
  13. Gerry Gentry

    Gerry Gentry Well-Known Member

    30-35mm rider sag is a decent place to start on the front. Be sure you have a travel indicator (i.e. zip tie) on the fork slider (lower tube) and start with it up at the fork seal/wiper before each session. Then check it at the end of each session. If it is all the way down at the lower lug or really close to it, add preload. A good place for you to tune to is about 5/8" off the lug.

Share This Page