'00 GSXR-750: Why Eating Through Stators?

My streetbike for the past 12 years.

I run 1 35w hid kit, PC, and speedohealer, that's it for additional draw if any. I've never run 100w etc. bulbs or neon etc.

The current stator has been on 554 miles (2 yrs) and is only putting out 20v per the manual's test procedure. Ohms checks in at 0.6, just over the max 0.5 spec'd by the manual. It's hardwired in as the previous connector melted some. The unit I replaced the OE stator with lasted 1 yr./800 miles. The OE 11 yrs. 14.5k miles.

Currently the OE receifier (2000) has a partially melted connector at the top right IE "BR" position per the manual. It is showing the following test parameters which seem to be in line with tests I've watched on Youtube. I listed below in the same manner as the manual's graph for testing. X= No test same pin and NA= value did not change when leads attached.

BR B1 B2 B3 BW

BR X 604 601 603 1335

B1 NA X NA NA 512

B2 NA NA X NA 572

B3 NA NA NA X 582

BW NA NA NA NA X

Experienced parties please comment on the findings above as I'd hate to throw on a 3rd stator only to have the rectifier be the culprit to its failures.

Thanks for any help you can lend!

 

Do you leave it on a battery tender?

 

The connections from the stator to the regulator rectifier are probably loose and / corroded. Cut the connectors off and soldier them.

With a fully charged battery and the stator DISCONNECTED from the R/R ensure you have 60 volts AC on each of the 3 wires coming out of the stator at about 5500 rpm. Check all three combos. Once you check that connect the stator to the R/R and make sure you have 13.5 DC coming out of the R/R to the battery.

 

Clip off all the connectors on the wire harness to the stator and the R/R and soldier them.

 

This ^^ I had a 2001 in here a couple weeks ago that had burned up 2 reg / rec in no time. It was the bad plug that caused it.

 

No sat for 6 mos., put a new battery in yesterday and it's not charging across the poles. Tested the rectifier above and can't tell if it's bad per https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dINJqxecb28 nor the manual.

Battery is new as of yesterday when this all began. The battery reads 13.3v across the poles while idling and drops to 12.3v as the throttle climbs. Battery tests at 12.9v with the bike not running, 12.7v is the spec. for the battery new per the instructions that came with it.

I'll cut the connector out of the rectifier but if the rectifier is bad that won't fix it. Still trying to figure out if my rectifier is in fact faulty. The stator is only putting out 20v when testing the 3 wires on the stator side of the stator harness.

Not burning up reg's rather stators. Reg. is OE from y2k. Everything worked fine 6 mos. ago when I put it in indoor storage.

 

This is one of the best charging system diagnosis charts I've seen. http://www.electrosport.com/technical-resources/diagnosis-center/fault-finding-guide (Click on the PDF link in Red) And I would agree with the others that the root of all your problems may be bad connections which cause the frying of the connectors, stator and reg/rectifier. Soldering is the most reliable but undoing the connectors every 6 months or so and spraying with contact cleaner or WD-40 can maintain good contact too.

 

It can only be 3 things.

- stator
- wiring
- voltage regulator

20 volts from my experience is way too low. The lower the voltage the higher the current. In conjunction with possible loose connections the low AC voltage out of the stator to the voltage regulator could fry the voltage regulator. Low AC voltage in, low converted DC voltage out. The lower the voltage and the higher the current the hotter everything gets.

Good luck figuring it out. Keep it simple.

 

Just for my own memory bank, do you clean out the cut wire from the crimped metal pin and solder the wire into the same pin or do you have a source for new wire/connector pins?

 

I think they mean solder wire to wire with no connectors at all.

It's a street bike it's not like you are going to carry a spare and replace it road side and you will have a solder iron in the garage for any future repair.

 

Don't for get the shrink wrap before you solder.