anyone build a big garage? what would ya do different, must haves ?

as stated go bigger than you think you want. you will never want it smaller but, you will run out of room fast. If you go with a second level and limit your height exposure, that will help with heating and cooling. the guys that say go super tall, miss the point that you have to heat, or cool that area, and smaller areas (less height) will work the hvac system a lot less. that will save you energy costs later down the road. understand whatever your tallest door height wish is, you need to be 2 feet taller, to have room for the header, and clearance for the door to be in the up/open position. we wanted a 12 foot door, for the rv to have access so, we went 14 tall walls... that is a tall building.

pro tip for concrete... lay down 2" thick ground contact insulated foam, then the plastic vapor/water barrier on top of that, prior to the concrete going on. this will eliminate big temp swings, and related floor sweating. also now you have an insulated barrier between the earth, and the top of the concrete. you are not heating, or cooling the earth, just the room/concrete.

spray foam: most metal providers, will not warranty metal from rust, warping or any issue at all, if you attach anything (inc spray foam) directly to the metal. also, not spraying directly to the metal works to your advantage... if you ever need to repair, replace a panel, you dont have to cut the foam, & dig it out all the crap that goes with that. you unscrew the fasteners and replace the panel. if you must spray foam, tyvek wrap the frame prior to metal skinning, (very tight, not loose), then spray the foam on the tyvek. if you put in on loose, many spray foam guys wont warranty the foam, due to adhering issues. if you dont want to wrap it, you could put thin foam insulated panels on, and spray foam to that. never spray direct to the metal. "why we dont use spray foam" on youtube also check with your electrical contractors, many will not work on foamed in walls.

get a 2 post lift for vehicles, if you can afford it. yes, you will use it. no more crawling on the ground to change oil, rotate tires, fix exhaust, suspension upgrades, repairs, rust proofing etc...

good luck to you, took us over a year to get our 30x40 shelled and weathered in. it was filled and too small by the first day I started putting stuff in it. Ski

 

This guy gets it.
For metal skin, add a barrier, tyvec, bubble wrap....whatever. Spray foam that. 2lb closed cell foam only, no 1/2 lb open cell. Either proper coating on that or drywall or other approved finish system. If posssible make wall cavities deeper than you need. Add 2-3" of foam and leave space for wire or plumbing behind drywall. Adding wire to wall filled with foam SUCKS!

If you dont need anything in there over 9' do 10ft walls with scissor trusses for more height but to help keep HVAC bills down instead of full 12-14' ceiling. If you need a tall bay make a gable with 1 bay 12-14' high wall and a door.
Insulate the concrete, it wont take much to help out 1"or so.
Get a $2500 2 post lift. Or a $5k 4 post lift that you can roll around as needed.
Lots of outlets. No more than that. No, still more.
Same with lights.

If you want to go nuts spec the frame for a trolley crane in some of it.

Plan out how you would the size you want and then realize you need it to be 10-20ft bigger each way.

I thought 30x40 would be great. Its effing full. Part of that is me with shit lying everywhere...but even with 5K of storage it would still be too small. Part of that was my local gubmint part budget.

 

But if the water is already hot how much more do you really need to heat it? This drives me almost as batshit crazy as “I could care less”…it’s a WATER HEATER, not a hot water heater FFS!

 

NICE ! 5,000 sf, and awesome. "wish list" stuff for sure.

 

behind the 45' RV storage building (purple circle area for big new garage?) that is already there, hoping to install a driveway that comes in around the RV storage, then circles around the back of it, and could stop in front of the purple circle area where i think is a good spot for the big garage.. and then could continue with trailer or whatever back onto the current driveway out to the road ?

 

Not really, 1' is enough. They have tracks for fitting doors in less space. My is less than 12"

 

Roll up doors can’t easily be insulated. Food for thought.

 

I was going to suggest a dedicated area for part and equipment storage. That way you can keep the place organized. Somewhere with storage racks and space for crates and such. That could maybe be in a loft with something underneath the loft. If it’s high enough inside, maybe a basketball hoop. A huge TV somewhere, maybe 2. Sonos / speakers around the workshop. Definitely a garage fridge and maybe a little bar / lounge area.

So I’m thinking you’re going to need something a little bigger for all this!

 

vr45fanclub reminds me of the heistotron vs randotron debacle from Rick and Morty...

 

good stuff.. and gonna have to take heed on the multiple posts about "go bigger than ya think ya need".
one company that does wood frame on their metal buildings did say once ya go much more than 30' deep, it gets expensive. can go long, but roof trusses start to get pricey, iron girders like Steel Commander does (sponsors the MA superstock series and Gabriel DaSilva) is an option too, but logistically can get complicated as i'd need a general contractor to coordinate stuff as i don't want to pull my own permits and sub everything on my own. they just send a pre-fabed building to your site that you design with them, but you gotta clear the site, pour a slab, then they hire a crew to put it up, but you then need to do all your own plumbing, electric, insulation, lighting, etc.. Concrete walls is still an option but will see !

 

Do you have/want to go steel? When I did my I was looking at steel and it was not any cheaper than I paid for wood, concrete tiles on roof and stucco on outside. I did do interior myself (drywall and electric)

 

A separate shed for the air compressor to keep the noise outside

 

Sure. But when the heater cycles on, it makes the already hot water even hotter.....thus, hot water heater.

 

facepalm

 

Put it in the back and far away from your neighbors so this oversized mobile home you are putting in and the never ending stream of malcontents you will have over doesnt piss off the neighboris so much they start calling the cops.

 

Steel buildings are for farm animals and tractors not people. We have a few on our ranch.

 

Save a nook to rent to me for bike storage!

 

I built a 40x80 pole barn many years ago. It has two 12x12 roll up doors on one end (one leads into the 22x40 shop) and a 12x16 on the opposite end. It's 14 ft up to the bottom of the trusses with a grease pit in the shop. It's a work space, not a living space. What I'd do different?
1. Screw the grease pit, too dangerous. I'd buy the biggest 4 post lift instead. Big enough for the dually or the vette.
2. 16 ft high with 14 foot high doors!!!! Big enough to get a 13'6" RV in
3. Lots of LED lights everywhere. LEDs weren't a thing when I built so I used flouresent tubes...they suck in the winter.

 

Parts washing station

 

Stage and Stripper pole?