Considering a new track-only bike. I had an R6, great bike. But sitting on a GSXR feels so much more ‘right’ to me. I much prefer the feeling of being ‘in’ the bike vice ‘on’ the bike (the R6). The Kawi feels weird, very long front. I also like the rather low seat height of the Suzuki. I could get used to any of the three, but the Suzuki intrigues me. What years of the GSX-R600 are preferred? Anyone make a good quickshifter/autoblipper? No throttle by wire may prevent? (Translogic on R6 was great) Are there any ‘must do’ modifications for track?
Having only read the title and not even glancing at your post I'm gonna go ahead and say yes hell yes to whatever it is you're asking.
Mind you, I've never owned a GSXR. I do recall reading that the rectifier is less likely to overheat and fail once it is relocated. Someone makes a kit for that. No idea if that is a "must-do" type mod or not. Go with what suits you. The rider is going to make the biggest difference, not the bike.
The R6 is never a bad answer. Just thinking if I build another bike I’ll do something different. And, I grew up racing mostly Suzukis so they do have an appeal. This would be probably just for track days. Spent my youth racing and learned there is a big difference between riding tracks and racing. Have the extensive medical records to show for it. But I won’t rule out some amateur racing.
Having just about every GSXR since '92, if racing, get the '11+ GSXR 600....But if you're only doing trackdays, then may as well get the 750....Only a few lbs heavier than the 600 (bigger/heavier pistons is about it) with a lot more power. And one of the biggest longstanding bonuses of the GSXR's is the parts interchangeability....The 600 and 750 are the same frame/chassis etc...Everything is practically interchangeable. Spare parts aplenty. I was very happy with DANOS performance ECU flash and stand-alone QS setup on my GSXR's. Great CS and dude to deal with. http://www.danosperformance.com/ECU Flashing.htm
I have had the r6 nice handling bike but kinda peaky,needs a tune, also harder to work on. I feel more comfortable working on the Suzuki, good midrange power, also I really like the Showa BPF. You do need to jack them up by shimming the shock, they make them that way so when people sit on them in the showroom, it's a selling point. Get the 2011 and newer, I have a 2019 600 The 750 is an excellent option, but more expensive.
I second the 750 for trackday bike and occasional racing. The bike is capable of doing most anything you ask of it with a stock motor. Get the suspension and geometry dialed in and let her rip. I have a 2011 and I’m still very competitive on it and the motor has never been touched. Just my two cents.
What he said...track day..you can ride virtually anything Racing...you usually only have 2-3 choices. Plus your outdated within a couple years...and have to start all over again . I know what your sayin..A GSXR you feel like part of the bike, something comfortable about them I have a older SRAD 750, I'll still put that up handling wise against most anything even made today..at least w me riding ..lol
2011+ 600 and 750 are the same chassis, just different cc's in the motor. Pretty much everything else is interchangeable.
You can put an 06/07 600 exhaust on an ‘11+ 600/750. Sometimes you can find a better deal on an 06/07 exhaust if youre looking for one for an ‘11+
Ok, coming back to this. New job, need a commuter bike and separate track bike. While I absolutely love my 890 Duke for both local rides and the track, 80mph for 45 min on a commute is not its strength. For the track bike, I'm heavily leaning towards 2011+ GSXR 750. In looking at them it seems common to shim the rear shock and extend the forks. How important are these geometry changes? I also saw a different yosh rear linkage. From what I've read the factory forks are fine, while the shock is just ok. I want to have my minimum required list for a real good 750 track scooter. Track body work, clip ons, rear sets, full pipe, ...then what?
The gsxr tends to push wide on power exits and be a little sluggish to turn in. All pretty much can be sorted out with some work... so it feels more like an R6.
I had a 600 for years and tried everything possible and still couldn’t get it to not run wide. It’s obviously possible because plenty of guys were fast on them, but fuck that was frustrating not figuring it out.
