School me on wood replacement windows

Ha. This post was extremely helpful! I happen to be about 90 miles from Quaker factory so I found a highly rated Quaker and Andersen dealer to include in the bid/evaluation process. Also, will consider sash replacement and maintenance since as you stated it's only the sashes that are starting to rot.

 

I see ads for Renewla by Anderson a lot. My neighbors just had new windows (Renewal by Anderson) put in; they seem to like them from what he said.

 

How long ago did you sell WS windows? My company uses Weather Shield, Anderson, Milgard, Lincoln, and MI windows. I have never had a problem with any of these. I am always willing to learn of anything wrong with a brand so I know if I should move away from it.

 

So thread jacking when I do new construction what are the window(s) and features I need to ensure I get. I would rather spend a bit up front to avoid paying the utility company over and over (and stuff like this makes the house more comfy )

 

It's been about 8 years since we dropped WS. The main issue with them was glass seal failures, we replaced at least one piece of glass in every order. They supplied the new glass, but I got stuck with the labor cost and that got real old fast.
The owners of the company were shady at best, but they may not be involved any more

 

This place, you could ask about a space shuttle and you have a good chance someone has some correlation with it other than staying at a holiday express the night before.

 

Depends on where you are building and budget for the windows. Aluminum clad is the best for just about any where, but they are very expensive for good quality. If you are in the south a light colored vinyl window with low-E with argon is very good.

 

Haha this is very true. I personally have a back ground in the beer industry, vehicle mechanic, fork lift driving, semi driving and some mechanical knowledge, construction and for the past five years section 8 construction sales and install. Section 8 for construction is doors, windows and skylights which I am in charge of the commercial side and residential. The other people do the repair side of the company.

 

Alabama with most windows facing east and a wrap around porch is the plan. Tree line to the west. Budget is not crazy expensive but I have found as I fix/upgrade the current place a bit more upfront saves a ton later. My hybrid water heater has paid for itself a few times already (the new place might be all on demand as I have gas available). Oh 2000ish sq ft + full unfinished basement is the current plan.

Is Krypton worth the extra over Argon?

Likely going 2x6 walls also.

 

There is a couple rocket scientists on here.

 

Always pay for the best Low E glass offered, but verify the performance numbers of that product. Krypton matters very little. Argon gas is the norm, and is perfectly fine.
The best glass for Southern climate currently is Low E 366, made by Cardinal glass. most of the best window companies use Cardinal glass, but they may call this Low E formula by another name ie; Andersen calls it SmartSun.

 

Yep.

 

Hell no, I ran the crew doing the glazing. That was the fastest link to the building I could find.

 

I have viewed some YouTube video of the process. If they’re the original I need to cut the original metal/aluminum frame out, correct? My question is after I obtain the replacement window what will I secure the window to? Will I use Tapco cement screws and secure the window to the cement rough opening?
I’ve seen several versions of how to install the window and was seeking the best option to secure the window.

 

Ok well lesson learned. The first person to identify my exact windows got it wrong. They are not Andersen 400, rather Andersen 200 Narrowline. And of course not made anymore...so an upgrade Sash replacement kit runs over $700.

 

No more fact based opinions

 

Check online for another AW dealer and check that pricing. I think there is a sash upgrade kit for your windows, but I am not sure of the cost. If you send me the estimate you received, or the specs of your existing windows I can see what is available and get you a reasonable cost.
I have no idea what this cost should be, but I am willing to check.

 

That’s about it and when you measure the opening make sure to check to see if it is square. It’s a big problem here in Texas. Also make sure to use the correct caulking.

 

My question for you is why do so many people like casement windows? They seem to mess up more than any other types here in Texas. I prefer SH and horizontal sliders myself.

 

Thank you again. So that others might learn from my ignorance, here are the replacement sashes given to me by Andersen Parts Support after looking up my info:


Upper: https://parts.anders…l_1627850__w_dh_psnl_sash.html
Lower: https://parts.andersenwindows.com/detail_1627950__w_dh_psnl_sash.html

Based on those I found a conversion kit to "modern spec" for around $750 retail: https://parts.andersenwindows.com/detail_1601940__w_dh_ck.html

After inspecting my windows carefully it look like I can probably get away with 4 new lower sashes, some scraping/sanding/painting to protect the remaining sashes without rotted wood, and exterior recaulking for appearance. Or bite the bullet by replacing all 20 of them and hope to recoup most of the cost through energy savings and home resale value.