Another r6 clutch help

Yep, first time I did it, I wasted a 2-3 hours at a trackday. I was told to pack around the pin with grease, etc. but it was still a pain. Then I laid it over and did it from start to finish in about 20 minutes. I've since seen someone mention using safety wire through the oil fill hole, but since I haven't wrenched on a R6 since 2013, I haven't tried it.

 

Got it to work. Although Is not perfectly aligned It’s either too to the left or to the right. It engages finally. It was my mistake.


For anybody reading this thread:

When you align the triangle to the dot you shouldn’t be able to push the arm with your hands. Only the cable action will be able to engage the clutch.

A lot of time wasted but I’m pretty sure I can race anyone doing an r6 clutch and win.

:/

 

Bumping this for some more R6 clutch advice.

I just installed a new clutch plate kit (09 R6) and have some questions. I used an OEM clutch kit and ended up using the standard steel plates. Total dry stackup width was right around 42.85 mm. I followed the manual for installation and have the purple friction plate on the inboard side and the brown plate on the outboard side, offset to align with the dowel mark. Pressure plate was installed by aligning the marks with the clutch boss marks. I installed new springs and torqued to spec.

I aligned the pull rod teeth towards the back, and slipped the cover on. It went on relatively easily. I installed the pull lever so that the dot aligned with the triangle. I can't pull the arm forward by hand but I can push it back about 1" before it stops. I attached the cable and set free play.

When I pull the clutch lever in, I can see the clutch pressure plate disengaging through the oil fill hole. The clutch lever feels normal, with normal pull resistance. The problem is that when I put the bike in 1st gear and pull the clutch in, it is very hard to roll. It will roll, but doesn't roll freely like it should.

Any advice is appreciated.

 

Is it cold? Cold oil will yield stiction and make it seem like something is wrong, cause you get oil drive instead of free wheel.

 

It is cold. It will be a few weeks until I get the bike back together so that I can start it. it is much more difficult to move than the other bikes in the garage however.

 

I finally got the bike out to start it. It's about 20F today. I let it idle and got coolant temp up to about 185F. After shutting it off, I shifted into first and was able to move the wheel by hand with the clutch lever pulled in but it still has quite a bit of resistance. It is better than before but still is more difficult to move than the other bikes in the garage. It is much easier in 3rd gear and up. I live in New England so it is pretty cold, and I won't have a chance to ride it any time soon.

Does this seem normal with a new clutch installation and cold weather? I want to make sure I get it sorted out soon because I'm planning a trip to Jennings in late Feb.

Thanks.

 

Start it up on the rear stand and shift into 1st with the rear brake on and see if it bogs down. If not, slowly let the clutch out to see where it engages.

 

Started it up. Shifted to first with brake on, engine did not bog down. It does still want to spin pretty quickly if I shift without the brake on but when I apply the brake to stop it and release the brake, it will not spin and does not bog.

With the brake applied and shifting into first, it starts to bog around 2/3 of the way out as I release the clutch, around where you would expect it to.

Once I shift to first with the clutch in and stop it with the brake, it does spin pretty freely by hand.

Thanks for the info so far.

 

pretty normal. especially with new clutch. And keep in mind, the "185f" is just coolant temp. Rest of motor parts were likely not quite fully up to temp yet..

 

That’s just normal oil resistance which is why I go sprint car style

 

Sounds good. Thanks.

Sprint car style?

 

I agree, what the heck does that mean?

 

Direct drive, pop it in gear and go.