I'm presuming you mean this? I've never installed my Ohlins cartridges, but these tools are used for changing your springs. http://www.shop.kyleusa.com/Fork-Cap-Removal-Pull-Up-Tools-0620-0627.htm Other bikes I've replaced seals on, generally have an allen bolt at the bottom that you need to loosen to install or remove the cartridge. You will need to remove the front wheel and axle first. I would loosen the allen bolt, before taking off the fork caps, so the tension of the springs will keep everything from spinning.
For Ohlins all you need is the pull up tool. You can use almost any pin wrench to get the cap installed. You unscrew the top cap of your forks, dump the oil out, unscrew the allen bolt on the bottom and remove the old cartridge. You might need to fab up a cartridge holder to keep the cartridge from spinning. Install the Ohlins the same way then pour in your oil and set the level after bleeding it. Install the spring and spacer and use the pull up tool to get to the rebound rod.
I will say I like this style better, with 4 pins, just make sure it will fit your caps, not sure it will http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/121486477723?lpid=82&chn=ps&ul_noapp=true I have the one in the first link and it only has two pins, and I never got around to buying some more pins and trying to install them. Two pins makes it easier to slip out while you are in a hurry and then you slightly scratch your caps.
I also had extended fork caps on my cartridges so I could hand tighten/loosen them to work on them. I never torqued the caps down, just hand tight.
Hi all, i've got an ohlins rear TTX GP shock YA 4691 that i want to install and i'm confused about shock length set up. A racer suggested a set up of " Rear shock should be raised 1mm (1turn) from bottom" 1 turn from bottom meaning, the bottom mount, where the bolt runs through, unwind it all the way out (lengthening shock) and back it into the shock 1mm? Or is it turning it all the way in (shorting shock) and back out 1mm?
i don't think 1 turn of shock ride height adjustment (turn of the nut) equates to 1 mm of actual ride height adjustment. i think it's much more. could be wrong though.. and if you can actually FEEL 1 mm of ride height adjustment, well... lol..
Straight out of the manual: “Turn the end eye/bracket to the desired length. 1 turn is the same as 1 mm shock absorber length.” i got my answer btw - its 1 turn out from max screwed in/up. That sound about right?
From the Ohlins PDF, that shock length is 293mm +5/-1. 1mm longer than minimum is 293mm, which is the stock length. And don't forget to include the shim. The stock one is 3mm IIRC, so you are at 293+3mm. That length works for me at some tracks. It's right in the middle of my range and is probably a good starting point. Shock length is the thing I change most often at different tracks, usually in 2mm increments. So feel free to experiment.
don't disagree that 1 turn is 1mm of shock length, but it's not equating to 1mm of ride height change. ride height i am pretty sure, would be more than whatever change in shock length is.. no ?
Approximate 2:1 wheel rate, so 1mm of shock length is 2mm at the axle. Shock thread pitch is 1.0 (Ohlins), so 1 turn is 1mm.
Does anyone measure rear ride height in the US? I’ve seen TenKate bikes come w a jig that provides a fixed location referenced off the frame for exactly that. But is it even a thing for race teams here?
It's only relevant in relation to the shock length, overall geometry and swingarm angle, all of which can also be easily measured. As an independent measurement, what purpose does it serve?
Just my $0.02, but the only answer to "what is the best setup for X bike" is at the very best a starting point. The only way to find a setup that works for you is to ride it, pay attention to how it feels, spin a nob, ride it again and see what difference that made keeping detailed notes on what you are doing. The key here is two points. How it feels to YOU and learning how each change affects the bike. There are certainly some base settings such as the right spring for you and the bike and a starting point for sag, but again this is just a starting point and a lot of it is just time and getting a sense for how the bike feels when you make a change. I am no expert by any means, so please take this with a grain of salt. My goal this season is to figure out how to tune suspension. I spent the last weekend doing exactly what I mentioned and I feel like I learned a thing or two, but I've got a long way to go.
