I am the recent owner of a 08' R6 and have become a traitor to Honda. lol I like doing research on what the differences are through the generations to know what has changed and in doing so I noticed the following. intake valves changed in 10' rods changed in 10' v stacks changed in 10' cams changed in 11' My question is what arrangement works best or does it even matter? Just updated part number because they changed the who produces the parts for them or are the parts actually different? As always thank you in advanced
Valve springs changed in 2010. The velocity stacks were a negative change. The rods are definitely better. The cams are slightly worse. 08-09 was the best race configuration. Change to the 2010 rods and valve springs and you have the optimum config.
Rick, when I looked up the p# s there is no difference from 08 to current for the valve springs p#.... most of the other stuff that has a superseded number the old number is crossed out and the new one next to it.... but that being said I just need to make sure when I order valve springs I order them for a 10'+? On the rods, do the 08's break or do they just stretch more? Thanks Rick
Just get the newest springs. I forget the colors, they've changed several times. I believe the newest ones are blue intake and white exhaust. Replace the retainers every time you take it apart. The rods get out of round on the big end, and they stretch about 0.001"-0.002" after 1000km of racetrack use. The new ones with the -10 part number have proven to be marginally better, but there is still an inherent oiling deficiency whether you have stock rods or aftermarket. Sizing for oil clearance is critical. Use good oil and cross your fingers.
wow.... so measure the rods and check how out of round they are. So I should plan on rods and retainers at refresh intervals? I think I'm missing my Honda now. lol
i am replacing the retainers (round things on top of springs) if there is any coating worn off. Would be nice to do every time and i know Rick indicated to do it every time, but my stuff is apart reasonably often so i'm keeping an eye on the wear. Also not quite riding it as hard as the top guys.
Rick, you mention the velocity stacks in the 11+ R6 being a negative change. How negative? And what can be done? My 'tuner' and i played with the ecu and changed the rpm that the stacks drop in down to 12k, and it helped tremendously on the dyno. Just wondering if theres anything else to do.
I've always wondered something - how do people come up with rod stretch numbers? You can't measure it statically, unless you've got a scientific-level stress-testing setup. Dynamic testing would involve revving the engine up to 17k rpm and then measuring something to the ten-thousandth of an inch, inside a very tiny, violent, highly-pressurized chamber.. again, not likely to happen. Analysis is just that - analysis, simulation. Do you just keep reducing squish by .0001" and running the motor up to high rpm, then check if the piston/head is shiny? Seems like a pretty slow, iterative, and expensive process.
Some rods stretch permanently after extended running at high rpm. This can be measured fairly easily. The rest is a bit of a guess, and yes, you back down from touching pistons, or just let it touch lightly. Certain engines tolerate touching better than others. I don't think 100% of the elasticity is the rods - other parts are also deforming, including the crankcases. Again - a guess. Something engineers don't like to do. The guys at Mercedes, Honda, Renault, etc. are very likely measuring this very accurately. I'm just crossing my fingers that it worked.
So what's the possibility of you sharing what ptv clearances I should shot for when I open this thing up?
Those are like the government clearances. Obama published those. No liability, no chance to improve or advance, just avoid problems and smile at everyone.
