OK, I have to agree with the other posters about re-shimming to get the best out of your forks but for about 10 euros you can buy some fluid to experiment with and you may get a slight improvement. Worth the effort in my poverty world. It's not necessary to buy Ohlins (expensive)fluid. Red Line and Silkolene Pro RSF (probably sold as Fuchs brand in Greece) are just as good and probably cheaper. Goodmatt78 already posted the fluid chart but here is a very good article about damping, including the chart, and explains what makes a quality oil. http://www.peterverdonedesigns.com/lowspeed.htm On the left of the page are listed some of this guys other very good articles about setup.
If it is all about saving a buck....sell your ohlins forks, buy stock forks and a 25mm or 30 mm kit and get properly set up and pocket a few hundred bucks.....look in the classifieds on here for used stuff and pocket even more. Either way you will be happier than staying with what you have....unless the bling factor means something.
talking to Dave @GP today again about this and his fix was (im an engine guy, not chassis so dont flame) the "mid valving" is not there/right thus it blows thru too fast. All i know is he went up on my springs and did the "mid valve" mod he does and fxxk me what an improvement on my Ohlins R/T's
If you are willing to do a revalve yourself. I can give you the shim specs. You will probably have around $40-50 for shims and oil.
yesterday i changed the fluid (Maxima 165/150) and seems to be ok :up: I rode it on the road and it was smooth, when it is working "hot" and a bit harder when it is "cold". Now i have the rebound in 6 turns out from full stiff (for road use) and after the rode i saw it "hot" for the track and it seems to work at 3 tuns out from full stiff. Compression for track, i suppose, it will be about 14 to 10 out from full stiff. we will see..... Thanks for everything all of you