Enclosed trailer - what to look for

I know, not another trailer thread. Sorry.

I'm hoping to buy this week or next, so I've been searching hardcore.

Most seem to have the same construction, i.e. .30 walls, 16 on center studs, etc, etc. Something I haven't seen is any information comparing flat roofs to round ones... is there a significant advantage to either style, beyond water shedding ability?

Is a v-nose worth extra money? I recall a thread a few weeks back that basically negated the v-nose as far as MPG is concerned, that MPG is basically influenced to a much higher degree by trailer height.

Are torsion spring axles worth the money?

Is a tandem axle worth the cost increase over a single?

I'm hauling 1 bike and one pitbike, along with the tools/supplies. I plan to sleep in it at the track. I've pretty much decided on a 6x12. Beyond that, what are the 'must-haves' and 'must avoids'?

I've got several ideas as far as interior setup thanks to all the great threads here, but I'm unsure what I should be looking for to start with.

 

-tandem axle w/ torsion spring
-drop down door/ramp instead of barn doors
-v-nose helps w/ the taller trailers but I'm short and would get the shorter trailer because they tow alot better.

 

a couple of pop-up vents on the roof and grates on the walls are a nice addition. Light weight trailers are more fuel efficient. I have had some work trailers: the height differences only marginally affected my MPG - I second everything above.

 

I actually like the barn doors as I can still get into the trailer when it's backed up to the garage. If I had a ramp door I'd have to roll it forward several feet to get into the back of the trailer. It's also nice at the track as I put the canopy up against the back of the trailer. Use the trailer as a tie down and have room in the trailer for seating, getting out of the wind, etc....

 

Agree on the barn doors, definitely, makes incidental access for silly stuff a whole lot less involved too...

 

round roofs take up interior space. shelves can be higher in a flat roof.
the space in a v-nose will be welcomed.
yes, torsion axle.
no, tandem in a 6x12 is overkill unless you have a need for the additional 3000lb capacity. tandems come with brakes, doesn't mean you can't have 'em on a single.

use some graph paper to layout your ideas to scale. later, the dimensions will guide the installation of e-track, tiedown mounts, etc.
use through-bolted mounts backed by fender washers or plates.
save money by cutting the e-track to the sizes needed...use cut-off sections on the walls to hold upright items, ez-ups, fuel drums, etc...3/8" interior walls are a plus here.

you didn't ask but, i argue against ramp doors. their only redeeming quality is the convenience of not needing a ramp. everything else about them sucks. they get in the way, virtually prevent the use of the space behind the trailer and limit the flexibility of laying out your "pit", not to mention it tells thieves there could be motorcycles inside.

 

another thing to look for is the appearance of quality.
you can look at two trailers of identical set-up from different mfgs with the same price.
one will look like a piece of shit in fit and finish.

 

Thanks guys, keep 'em coming.

I had pretty much already decided against a ramp for all the reasons mentioned, also because the thing gets wet as hell if you want to leave it down while you sit in the trailer during rain.

 

sit in the trailer?!? why ain't you out on the track?!?

 

I have a ramp. Don't disagree with the barn door fans. If you get a ramp, best thing to do is spray it with bed liner, minimizes the slipperliness and makes waterproof.

I also recommend strapless stands, and pit pal/posse for helmet holders, door rack, trie rack, etc.

 

Err, uh.... I meant between races.

 

Torsion axles for sure. Leaf springs will bounce your stuff a lot more. Torsion really helps if you run one tire off pavement or hit a sizeable pothole. Ramp doors have thier benifits,like when you're dead tired at the end of the day and need somewhere to put your feet for balance when loading Other than that I agree with the barns being easier . I would not go for tandem axles unless you went past 12 feet in lenght . Brakes on a single axle really depends on what you're using as a tow vehicle. My wifes ML320 being all time 4WD with 4 wheel anti-lock brakes pulled my 6X12 like it wasn't even there where my Ford Sport Trac that had the same HP had hell towing and stopping it . It actually pushed the Sport Trac once when the road was wet . V Nose is good because your wheel chock fits nicely in the V and then you can build cabinets around the front fender real nicely . It's also added length on most trailers . A 6X12 would actually be 6X14 in interior lenght to the V on most models .

 

I'd buy a 20ft enclosed Pace trailer from me if I were you...

 

We have a 14' Wells Cargo trailer at work I use on jobsites. I think it is a 97' or so give or take a year or two.

I'd venture to say we've towed it at least 100K miles, maybe even 200K

It's had every kind of chemical spilled on the floor you can think of.

The only things we've done to it were replace the brakes, replace the cable breakaway, replace the pigtail (fell out and ground off), replace the rusty ass wheels with chrome, and threw a coat of epoxy paint on the tongue. Oh and replace the spare tire rack, it rotted out. (by the way, anti-seize the shit out of every bolt and your lock on the spare)

All in all I'd say we got our money's worth. It has barn doors, and for the few times they've been handy, the other 90% of the time I wish it had a ramp door for powerwashers, dollies, etc.

 

I bought a 6x12 Haulmark trailer a couple years ago. It easily fits 2 bikes side by side, maybe a 3rd in the middle up front of the 2 in the rear. I haul it with my 07 Dodge Nitro R/T 4.0L with no issues.

I looked for the following:
1- full size spare tire/rim included
2- electric brakes- due to hauling with a smaller than full size hauler.
3- single axle
4- low boy
5- fold down rear door
6- side door

My plan was to sleep in the trailer as well so I did the following:
1- installed a breaker box for a use with a generator
2- installed 3 shop lights- it's like turning on the sun.
3- installed 4 electrical outlets- 2 front 2 rear for using tire warmers, electric grill, fan, electric heated blanket, laptop, power tools, flood lights etc.

I run the electrical with a Honda EU 3000 generator

Do yourself a favor and install strapless stands, Baxley Wheel chocks or Pit Bull trailer restraints. Otherewise, you'll have to cut and install floor mounted D-ring anchors, or E-track in the floor. Invest the money and get the strapless products.

 

[thread jack] Von's custom trailer [/threadjack]

I didn't want to start a whole new Trailer Thread

[thread jack]

Anyone ever get a custom trailer made or an existing trailer modified.
I have a very tight space (width and highth) to fit a 5x8/10 enclosed. Currently the only one that will fit is a low profile with 5 foot 6 inches of head space, I'm 5 feet 10 inches tall and want to sleep in it and be able to walk around without hunching over or hitting my head.

Im limited to a total height of 89 inches (7feet 4inches).

Standard 5x8/10 V-noses normaly are 6 feet tall inside leaving about 14inches for wheels and everything else. Do this seem possible to make?

I read about 6 inch Dexter Drop axles as options on some trailers. i emailed 3 trailer shops with my dimension to see if they have or can make something to fit, but none of them responded.

Anyone get a custom/modified trailer made?
Im in the DC area. Know of any good trailer shops to get this made?
[/thread jack]

 

I did a lot of research before buying earlier this year. Here's what I found:

1- Most trailer companies use bias ply tires (to save $), not radials....stay away from these.
2 - The roof construction varies by company. Some use aluminum tape to cover the roof seams! I don't care if it does have a lifetime warranty, I'm not buying that crap!
3 - Vnose or radius nose...you will need the extra room for sure.
4 - Many companies try to up sell you on extras. You can do it yourself for 1/4 the cost. i.e. vents
5 - Get a spare!

I like my ramp door. This past weekend, I lined my trailer up so the side door was on the edge of the pavement and I could walk in without getting dirt inside...it worked great. Single axle for sure. I pull 2 bikes in mine with a Jeep Wrangler...pulling is not a problem, stopping is.

I looked at Pace, Load runner, etc... I came close to just driving down to S. Georgia and picking one up from the builder. In the end, I bought a Haulmark 6 x 12 off craigslist. The guy posted it at 2:00, I called at 2:01 and by the time I got there to pick it up, he already had cash offers sight unseen. It's a tough buyers market.

Good Luck with your purchase!

 

I have a 6x12 tandem axle with the brake deal and I can tell you first hand it handles a LOT better than my single axel ever did. It is a lot heavier, but I like the stability on the highway with the tandem axle. I also have the flexibility of loading it for bear. 2-3 bikes, tool box, generator, spare wheels and parts, canopies, etc. That shit weighs a lot when you add it up.

The front end of the V-nose has been converted to shelving space. I'll post some pics later. I'm in the middle of painting and laying the flooring.

 

1 piece roof
15" tires
V nose of sorts
side door


funny... was just shopping this weekend for a smaller unit. He gave me a local contact who was marking them up $750++. Think Ill just make the 2hr drive myself.