Brembo Crash Kit.... Installation suggestions

I need to replace the parts in my Brembo with the parts from the crash kit. I was told by Yoyodyne that it’s possible to change the parts without having to bleed the brakes.

Yoyodyne also said it would be a pain and I would need an assistant and 6 extra hands.

I don’t mind bleeding the brakes at home, but I would like to know the trick so if I need to do it at the track, I don’t have to bleed the brakes.

Any suggestions?

 

Just bleed the brakes. It isnt that hard anyway.

 

Yeah, I am just being lazy... I would like to know how I can do it in a hurry without having to bleed anything.

 

if you crashed a motorcyle and damaged any part of the master cyclinder it would be a very very bad idea to not bleed the brakes. things happen when you jam a piston with a giant lever into the ground, such as seep air, seep dirt and all kinds of other good stuff, dont forget to bleed the master too. If you really hate bleeding brakes, by a mightyvac. They work well, though i have found that I can bleed a set of brakes nearly as quick as a mighty vac with just a little practice.

 

Good point... I will bleed the brakes clean

Just wanted to look for the easy way out when I was at the track one day.

Thanks for the honest suggestion.

 

Bleeding the brakes takes all of 15 min.

 

Brembo 19x18 m/c install ?'s

I just got this m/c and had a few ?'s about the intall. I was told to use the least amount of crush washers. Should I screw on the banjo bolt until it barely seats and then remove it and add 1 washer at a time until I get them to crush. Does a crush washer go in between the line and the m/c itself? Also what is the best way to bleed the radial m/c I have never had one before. I have been using motul DOT 4 before should I stick to it or use DOT 5. I got the banjo with the brake switch also since I ride on the street and track. Thanks for any help.

 

Holy crap. i am on the same racetrack as you guys?????

seriously, you should bleed your brakes minimum of 2X per season, since brake fluid is hydroscopic (absorbs water) and will affect brake performance.

bleed your brakes (and master) if you crash for the above mentioned reasons of dirt and trash in the system.

use either a vacuum bleed or the pressure bleed, or the manual way.

 

not sure with the brake switch but use 4 crush washers, 2 in the center should be fine. Bleed the master cylinder banjo bolt first, then each caliper after you've got a good solid feel on the lever, then bleed the nipple on the master cylinder, if you're still not sure zip tie the lever and leave it over night... in the am cut the zip tie pump the lever once and then crack the valve, it should be hard as a rock and then watch out for the bite of that thing, it will kill ya:up:

btw a 19x18 on a 600 is a bit much

 

My goal was to understand how to do this in a hurry at the track... I am sure a few people have cut corners to get out on the track after a crash to make a race.

I had every intention on bleeding the brakes after the repair parts are installed. Even if I used the short cut method, I was going to put new fluid in.

 

I'm sure you meant to say hygroscopic. :up:

 

I just bought speed bleeders this year.

Makes bleeding take 5 min and seems to work well.

Is there any disadvantage of using them?