I have an opportunity to snatch an '06 R6S and would appreciate any insights on the bike as a platform, as I intend on racing it in a 600cc class. Can someone confirm it's fuel injected and if there are any recommended mods that it would need and any other info would appreciated. Thanks!
They're a good platform for a track bike. They are fuel injected and are essentially identical to the 03-04 R6. As far as competitiveness with more modern 600's...your results may vary. What is your experience level with track riding?
I am an intermediate level rider, and around 225lbs with gear. Would I need to upgrade the suspension?
Melka had a post a while back explaining the positives of that gen R6, especially for a developing rider. Might be worth a search.
why would you want to convert a stock S model? Even if it was free... you' be looking at $4,000 easy between suspension, body, etc. You can buy a late model 3rd gen with all the standard stuff for $7k ish... that includes spares.. And even the carb'd models are competitive at the club level.
Cut my teeth on a 99, which actually isn’t that different. Can’t think of a better bike to start on. Diving into racing from intermediate track day isn’t that much different from back in the day when our first track day was learning curves. You’re probably going to suck for a minute, so why not do it on a bike that doesn’t punish your mistakes? You’ll probably be faster on it honestly.
At 225, you would probably benefit from having the suspension resprung for your weight, but you don't have to. If you do go this route, I would focus on keeping things simple and keeping cost down as far as parts are concerned. Safety wire it, make sure the maintenance is in order, ride it and learn all you can (and have fun!). They are really fun bikes!
great bike.. massive midrange (KWS dynoed the new 06R6 and the 03-05/S model had 10hp midrange more..) that didn't get back with the new model R6 till 08 when the added the variable v-stacks.. Great feedback with the non-upside down forks, especially for intermediate rider. the 05 r6 went to upside down forks, and it was found to be TOO stiff with that frame. same with the 06-07 new r6, in 08 yamaha cut the frame under the air box. to "loosen" the bike up for more feel. with the steel valves, it will be more reliable than a newer TI valve bike (but not rev quite as fast or as high)
The R6S has great front end feel bone stock. I wouldn't do anything but respring for your weight at first. Other than what's required for racing, you could do pretty well for a long time without changing a thing on that bike.
I had one back in 08. It was pretty good, but I personally prefer an overstuffed La-Z-Boy recliner (extra lazy, please!), which is why I went back to a gsxr for my trackbike. Even with the unspeakably terrible things I did to the forks on that poor bike, I can definitely understand why people like them. The handling was better than any of my gsxrs have ever been. I just didn't like the "sit on top" riding position. Like the others have said, they're great bikes. As long as there's nothing mechanically wrong with it, it'll be just fine.
Awesome feedback everyone. Melk is obviously a hell of an authority on these bikes and for good reason. I know tires are a personal preference, but from your experience which tires worked best with the R6S (USD forks) to maybe lessen the effect of the stiff frame?
all i rode on those bikes (i had an 03, an o4 and two 2005's) are Michelin. i would say they were, and have been, between Dunlop (firmer carcass) and Pirelli (softer carcass). What Rob Jensen and Thermosman had us do, was remove the upper 12mm motor mount bolt on each side (1 each side). Not the big on in front or the big bolts that go all the way through the motor in the back, but the small 12mm head bolt near the top of the motor.. this allows some flex. Then, on the 05 with USD forks, they discovered loosening the upper triple clamp bolts allowed the bike to flex. They found this by accident when at an AMA event, Rob went as fast as Hacking, Disalvo, etc and they discovered one top clamp bolt had fallen out. So they drilled a hole and ran a bit of safety wire so they wouldn't fall out, but BARELY torqued the upper bolts. We still run a bit less than the manual calls for on both upper and lower on the newer bike.. 17.6nm on the 2 per side lower triple bolts and 20nm on the upper bolts.
I ran a 2003 R6 and a 2008 R6S (the "S" model has standard forks. Only the 2005 had USD forks) for the better part of 18 years. My 2003 was essentially bone stock except for eventually switching to race tires and it got me to well into advanced pace. I got the 2008 and modified it with proper Ohlins suspension by thermosman (YA505 rear shock, 20mm FPK valving up front). That 2008 was simply the most responsive, easy to ride, and generally well-balanced bike I've ever ridden. Did EVERYTHING I wanted, and nothing I didn't. I will say it till I'm on my deathbed............the 2nd generation R6 is the best all-around supersport bike ever made. Sure, the newest stuff is faster, but nothing will get you closer to the limit with that much ease while whispering sweet nothings in your ear like a properly setup 2nd gen.
If it is stock suspension, yes. The front end is notoriously undersprung for somebody of your weight. I am also ~225 lbs fully geared, and I went with 1.0 springs up front and a 105nm rear spring, but Mike Fitzgerald said he's found many people with similar weight also enjoy the 100nm spring for the rear. I ran the 105nm with essentially no preload, so you may find the 100nm better so you have some adjustability. My front forks (with the Ohlins FPK 20mm valves) had 7.5w Ohlins oil @ 120mm with 5 degree compression needles. They were magical. I mostly ran the Dunlops over the years, and found the KR448/KR451 (180 rear) to be my favority combo. I'm pretty sure I kept all my notes, so if you have any particular setup questions let me know. I told myself I'd never sell my 2008, but it was time for me to move on to something on my bucket list, so she's found a good home and the new owner is enamored.
This is the best advice. Like I said, for just starting out, just get it resprung and refreshed (if it hasn't been recently). That bike will get you very, VERY far. The only challenge I had towards the end of my tenure with 2nd gens is the parts were becoming harder and harder to find. Things like good subframes, bodywork, and accessories are slowly starting to cycle out of availability as these bikes start to fall out of popularity...........despite the fact that Yamaha sold a shit-ton of them.
Gen 2’s are the only 600’s that interest me. I’ve had them on the street, tracked and raced them over the last 15 years, good times. There’s a wealth of knowledge and folks with more experience than me on here.
This is gold, thanks Melk-Man. Appreciate the insights Nemesis. If you linked a photo, it's not showing up for me.
I know stock is 120/60, should I stick with that or switch to 120/70. Given my size/weight I'm thinking the 120/70 would have better braking stability? Never ridden on a 120/60.
Basically everyone switches to the 120/70. Some folks shim the shock a bit to maintain front/rear height, others raise the forks through the triple clamps.