clearance can be checked at any position of the BASE circle (no lobe influence ) thread comp gage into plug hole and hold the starter until the pressure stops rising. Also:
Correct, doesn't matter where the crank is. Make sure the bike isn't in gear when you do the leakdown as well, just for safety.
Thanks Im getting 180-175 right now on a cold engine from doing my research a hot/warmer engine should put me right at spec. I'll probably put it all together and run it for the 2020 track season and get the motor rebuilt after. Sent from my SM-G965U1 using Tapatalk
Download a free service manual- it walks you through the valve clearance check. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
just get rid of the tank ... too many good or decent tanks out there for $300+- to mess about with a rusty tank causing future issues. I'd toss the fuel pump too. Can pick em up for $100 on ebay. Compression was fairly consistent, 185psi with fast cranks (good battery) and throttle/butterflys held open is min spec. Now that you ran it for a bit, try it again. Usually see 5psi or bit more testing a warmed recently ran motor vs cold. 23k isn't that much if it was taken care of to the point it was parked. barely a couple of valve clearance inspections.
I ordered a new fuel pump and vavle cover gasket. My vavles all checked out with in Spec. I cleaned the tank out with "the works" cleaner and it killed all the rust. (surface) Sent from my SM-G965U1 using Tapatalk
As of right now it's sitting in the garage with a coat of wd-40 to prevent flash rusting. With what though. Sent from my SM-G965U1 using Tapatalk
.. it's gonna rust again if not sealed properly. there are chemical products out there to do this procedure. not better than a non rusty tank, but sounds like you are trying to get by on a budget. at least get the proper chemical tank treatment/sealer.
I don't mind buying another good condition tank I just still need to verify that the transmission on this R6 is good so I need at least a run maybe 6 to 10 miles just to make sure everything checks out. Sent from my SM-G965U1 using Tapatalk
if ya run that bike, with that tank, for any length of time, you need to pull the pump halves apart (be sure not to yank the small wires that go to each half) and see if the filter sock is collecting crud that rusted and flaked off the sides of the tank. It can only catch so much stuff, smaller stuff will pass on to the injectors, and potentially clog the 35 micron filter baskets in the injectors.
I understand that but the tank now is pretty clean to be honest. I'm verifying at a decent cost once this bike is at least 100% runnable then I will dump the appropriate money into it but as of right now I only got $900 sunk in a 2015 R6 with 23k miles and good valve clearances. Sent from my SM-G965U1 using Tapatalk
Gross, kreem SUCKS. On the pump front, you can get replacement pump guts and filter socks for sub $20 off eBay. Burn up a cheapie pump for testing, then if you're not sure of it put a good pump in?
Caswell Fuel Tank sealer. One coat of a two part epoxy that bonds to the surface, unlike Kreem. I don't know enough about POR-15, but I know that Caswell was dead stupid easy to prep and apply.