I tried to drill the pinch bolts to safety wire for my 17 R6 and it didn’t go so well. Bits snapped off inside the head. I tried different spots on the head, and the bits kept snapping off inside the head. Long story short, where is a good pace to buy pre drilled bolts? I don’t need the titanium ones, stainless steel will be just fine. I might as well ask the same question for the caliper bolts and axel nuts, just in case the same thing happens.
Are you running the drill at full speed? Those little bits are not going to like that.Run the drill slowly. Also try keeping just barely light pressure on the bit to give it a chance to bore/cut the metal,and pull it out to extract the shavings as its cutting. The shavings will bind up with the bit in the hole/bore, and cause them to snap inside. There are ads at the top of the homepage for aftermarket bolts,if all else fails and you decide to buy,FYI.
Not at full speed, but I definitely didn’t have patience with it. Not something I’m proud of. I just finished up the caliper bolts with success. I wasn’t pulling the bit out to clean it, or let it cool. I would just go. I might be able to salvage a spot or two on the last two pinch bolts. Thanks for the help. Much appreciated. Any advice on how to do the axle nuts?
Center punch to get a place to start the bit. Begin drilling st a 90 degree to the flat of the nut. Once it is barely started angle the bit to be be able to come out the adjacent flat spot of the nut. If you are having a problem seeing it take the bit out of the drill and lay at the angle across the two flats for a reference on where to drill. Go SLOW. Bits do not like to get over heated. Cutting oil or Coca Cola works well too.
Most use too small of bits, thinking they’ll compromise the fastener. Or, they’ll use cheap bits, which always break or quickly dull. I use a DeWalt titanium 1/8” bit, which cuts right through. As others stated, go nice and easy with the task.
Also a little info on the best type of bits to use for this. I like bits made of cobalt. The carbide tips can be a little too brittle in small sizes when drilling for safety wiring. https://www.grainger.com/know-how/industry/metalworking/kh-which-drill-bit-does-the-job
The smaller the bit, the higher the rpm you should use. Use a center punch for the starting spot. Cool the bit with cutting oil. Pull the bit out occasionally and remove the chips. You can feel and see as the bit starts to break through the other side - reduce pressure or it will snap. I have done all of the drilling for a club racing bike with one good quality 1/16" bit on many occasions.
Drilling is complete. Not the prettiest looking, but it will work. The pinch bolts are slightly off on being aligned so they wont look like a pro did it, but again, it works. Glad I don’t have to buy the bolts now. Thanks for the help guys, I really appreciate it!
On a side note. Anyone know what the torque spec is on the front and rear axle nut is? I’m having a hard time believing it’s 82 or so foot lbs.
Front wheel axle 91 Nm (9.1 m·kg, 67 ft·lb) Front wheel axle pinch bolt 21 Nm (2.1 m·kg, 16 ft·lb) Rear wheel axle nut 110 Nm (11.0 m·kg, 81 ft·lb) Not sure if these changed for the 17+..
I found it online in the service manual. It’s saying 85 ft-lbs for the front. I don’t think I’m going to go that crazy. I’ll stick with what you sent me at 67 ft-lb. The rear is the same. The pinch bolts are showing 15 ft-lbs. This all for the 2017 R6.
I have to agree with the axle bolt torques being excessive. I don't know why they are so high. I believe they want to inner race to be stationary with respect to the fork tubes but the clamping pressure with the spec torque is extreme.
Keep in mind axle nut torques are made for a bike that's ridden on the street and rarely looked it and they want it to never ever ever come loose... In many cases they're well higher than they need to be and some will even bind the wheel bearings if actually tightened to the stated spec. I usually use somewhere between 50 and 60 as a ballpark and have never had an issue street or track (I know anecdotal evidence means nothing) but especially if it's being wired then the higher torque is unnecessary. I think on the GSXR the rear is something ridiculous like 95 foot pounds.
I hate spending the money, but I'll buy pre drilled ones from Pro Bolt every time unless it's a non-normal bolt and I have to drill it myself.
That’s what I was thinking. I tend to forget about the street side of it because I stopped riding on the street a while ago. I have a tendencies to want to act like a clown. Any thoughts on a descent torque wrench? I have a Pittsburgh pro, but I don’t trust that thing. I was looking at the Tekton or CDI/ snap on one.
You'll probably get a wide range of responses for this one. I've got a Kobalt from Lowe's that has been excellent. Decent price, and it's accurate when I compared it to some higher priced units. If you're just using it for the normal stuff (axles, caliper bolts, triples, etc.), then there's no need to go with something crazy-priced.
Yeah I figured I would. I agree with you on the the fact I don’t need a $400 torque wrench. It will be used mainly for what you said plus my vehicle lug nuts.