I run the spec on rear axles due to the driveline, don't want that shit moving. If i have to replace the axle once in a while because the threads wear out that's fine by me. I do the same on the 450r, but the dirty bike is a lot harder on drivetrains that's for damn sure.
I'm glad to see there are at least 2 of you with a brain in this thread. go with the spec torque on the wheel axles. it's that high for a reason. 80 something is nothing. the R1 is 137 ft/lbs. that one makes you sweat. but I've never had a single issue with all the ones I've done at home(mine) or the yamaha dealer I worked at. the problems people have with it is they don't know how to properly use a torque wrench and own a junk wrench that's probably off by 25 ft/lbs. and should let someone else work on their bike. it doesn't crush the bearings. the axle spacers press on the inner race of the bearing. it is hardened steel. much harder than the aluminum spacers that are pressing on it. it doesn't put any kind of load on the balls or the outer race. the weight of the bike does that. anyone that even entertains this thought loses 110% credibility in my eyes.
110 N.m is too high of a torque on the stock rear axle. It's a liability thing. I use that torque on heavy duty quick change axles with acme threads, but you will stretch the threads on the stock axle. At 90 n.m, the axle does not move and you don't stretch threads. So many bikes that come in for chassis work are over tightened.
I was ready to call bullshit on this but then got to eat some humble pie this weekend after noticing the brake side of my axle had drifted back quite a bit from where I'd set it at... lesson learned.
