That one and other that I found in google are the ones I follow when I did all my bikes :up: The only thing that I did after breaking a few drill bits was to go one size bigger on on the bits
Ewwwwwww The link to RC51 images of safety wiring left a lot to be desired. The "backwards S" is all good and fine, but the twist should end right at the fastener. In the example of the front axle, just end it at the first hole - no need to go all the way through the axle. The engine oil drain bolt example is weak also. The tutorial is fine, but the examples shown could have been better.
I'll wait until the tech inspector or Mongo tells me to remove the clip on the oil fill. The oil fill cap is the only part that is oil related that can have the clip. The drain plug and oil filter have needed to be fully wired the whole time I've been racing. It kind of reminds me of the clutch adjustment cover on the Gsx-Rs. I remember Ed Bargy stating at a riders meeting at Nashville that silicone was no longer allowed. The two caps on the right side case cover had to be wired from that point forward. I rarely ever see anyone with them wired. Everyone still uses silicone.
Per the current rulebook, unless the Mongo says otherwise. a1)Substantial gauge “R” type spring clips may be used in certain applications but must be wired to the machine. Tab washers designed to accept safety wire may be used. Safety pin style clips may be used on most items but NOT on oil drains or oil filters.
To GixxerBlade GixxerBlade - is there a website that has this diagram that could print in larger fonts?
I had such a hard time figuring out how to do my drain plug and oil filter. I think when I race I'm going to just pay to have a pro do all the other bits and pieces.
As of 2010 the only things required to hard wire are the oil drain and filter. Everything else oil related can use a clip per the rulebook.
how hard is it to drill a hole in a bolt? use patience, good bits, and some cutting oil or wd/40 even to get the job done. oil filter - use the k/n style and its already got a safety nut on the end for you. from there its just figuring out where to safety wire it to on the bike. unless you're rich or already on a factory team with dedicated mechanics, that would be a major waste of money IMO.
I had MarMo drill the bolts and use K&N filters. Underneath the bike though I just had the darnest time routing and twisting the wire up. I mean I got it but if I had to figure out how to do another 20 bolts in that kinda fashion I think it would be worth it for me to pay someone and watch how its done correctly. Although I think caliper bolts should be pretty easy.