Water Methanol injection for Diesel?

IMO, $800-$1200 for something like that is a waste of money. If it were a competition truck, then, it makes sense. That’s a high load, short duration application, which is opposite of you. And, you’re not having any issues, so it’s kind of pointless. If I were spending money on anything, it would be an Air Dog setup, airflow efficiency, and fuel additives.

 

For you guys saying more fuel, cooler EGT...yeah for GAs 100%....but some ways diesels are a different animal and they can act a little weird. In a gas engine you throw too much gas at it and kill the sparkalator and no fire, no burny = very cool engine...diesels may just keep going and send that unburnt liquid fuel out the cylinder to burn in the exhaust, like some kind of black smoke, rolling coal, anti lag and increase EGT...maybe.

I second doing whatever banks or someone like that recommends to lower EGT. That dude is awesome at diesel tuning and doesnt nearly as snake-oily as 99% of diesel bro's out there.

 

Somebody has watched Derek on Vice Grip Garage. Sparkalator. Lol.

 

I would be looking into a proper intercooler first....

 

My brother has 2 models of the same CaseIH tractor, 5250's, ones stock and one the fuels been turned up a little, that one will run hotter when you're working it.

 

BLUF: My overpriced .02 would be to improve airflow efficiency prior to adding a water/meth system to achieve the results you're seeking.

I've always wanted to try a water/meth system on my diesel truck, but just haven't pulled the trigger. When I first started playing with trucks, even Banks had a kit on the market (they still might, it's been a while since I last looked into it). The power gains and "safety" claims (among others) appear quite attractive. Power adders (water/meth, nitrous, propane, etc.) can provide a nice increase in performance, but that performance is usually measured in small increments - seconds, maybe a minute at the most (fairly different from driving up a long hill loaded to the gills). FWIW, when deciding to "upgrade" my '14 Dodge (Cummins), I decided to try to focus on increasing efficiency - especially air flow. Improvements to air filter/housing, intake manifold, intercooler, turbo, exhaust, etc., increase performance and lower EGTs. Like everything else we play with, it's easy to get carried away and drain the bank account. Because I suffer from the "it's never enough" mental condition common to many who frequent this board, I also improved the cylinder head with larger valves and added larger injectors. I'm probably off the deep end of most folk's rational scale, but my 1 ton 4x4 dually regularly gets over 22 mpg (combined, every day driving) with a best of 25.2 on a straight interstate shot from N. Ga. to S. Fl., and can pull any of the overloaded junk I have to haul around without any issues. Prior to changing out parts, I usually got between 12 and 14 empty. I'd be interested to hear comments/experiences from the other sources you're searching. I'd also like to hear what you decided to do as well as your results - feel free to PM me if you don't want to clog up the board.

 

Thanks all for the continued input.

one additional nugget - I am not looking for “power adder/hp” increase.

preventative maintenance goal = address EGT temps and keep them lower etc when towing in the mountains (steep grades etc).

 

Do you have a means to measure EGT`S?

If they are reasonable, just try and keep the engine in it`s torque sweet spot. This alone will keep EGT`S down.

 

https://official.bankspower.com/tech_article/why-egt-is-important/

Make sure you have time to read this. I learned a lot and I thought I already had a good grasp.

 

Same here, had Banks on my motorhome and it would beep if I hit 1300 or so. But this things are heavy and going uphills is hard on them, never had problem with truck needing help (same one RRP has).

 

Dont high egts actually help the newer truck in their emissions stuff ?

 

Only during regen cycles. Ski

 

Yes. It helps keep the DPF burned out, without resorting to passive or parked regens. As part of maintaining high EGT’s, it’s best to lug modern diesels. The Volvo D13TC, Detroit DD15, and Navistar S13 are all designed to pull <1000rpm. My new MX13 is designed for <1200rpm.

Using the correct fuel additive will further mitigate regens and enhance mileage. I know a guy who left a Volvo idle for 8 days, as an experiment, and the datalog showed it never went into regen, because the additive promoted complete combustion of the fuel.

That’s not accurate.

 

https://official.bankspower.com/news_release/banks-water-methanol-injection/

 

No.

The heat is generated in the exhaust, after the engine.

 

Sorry - just saw this.

Yes - I have CTS3 monitor set up for EGT and several other things I keep a pretty close eye on.

EDIT - my Sierra is ‘05 pre emissions Duramax.

 

I hear LLY needs different mouthpiece for turbo.

 

Got it - S&B turbo inlet upgrade for better air flow.

thanks Z

 

I’m curious Mark, what kind of temps do you see under different circumstances?

I just watched mine more closely yesterday and could get about 1000 degrees if I’m pushing the boost going up a climb at 70 plus mph. That’s unloaded though, and a Ford.

 

No problem, that is what good friends are for!
I notice that this thing costs $1000, give or take.
Is that coming out of your race budget or the kid's college fund? Maybe instead of the summer trip with the family to Yellowstone, you will just be taking in all the glories of southern IL. I hear the Cave-in- rock State Park is awesome in July.