If any one could shed some light on how to do this ,I would greatly appreciate it. I've searched all day and can't find an 06/07 specific DIY. Thanks for the help!
You ever figure this out?? From what I understand the Pre-06' resistor trick that is on these forums here does not work on the 06+ bikes. Is there a work around?
Show me one thread where it has been covered in entirety for the newer bikes (07+). There is one more thing you have to do in order to get the fuel pump to work which is different from the 15 threads regarding keyless GSXR's.
the `07 and the `06 is the same...let try and find it. I found your thread in the search I did. as far as the key what you need to do is this: Parts: 100 Ohm Resistor, 1/2 watt, 5% tolerance: Radio Shack part 271-1108 18-20 Gauge Wire (two different colors) Electrical Tape I soldered all of the connections. If you would rather use connectors and a crimping tool, you will need to have a supply on hand. I am not sure how one would install the resistor with out a soldering iron. ------------------------------------------------------------------------ Here is the legend for the various wires involved in the re-wiring: Wire Colors and Functions (Right Handle Switch (Kill Switch)): O/B (Orange with Black Tracer) -- Kill Switch O/W (Orange with White Tracer) -- Wire Colors and Functions (Key Switch): Br (Brown) - Tail Light B/W (Black with White Tracer) - Ground Gr (Gray) - Instrument Cluster Light and Horn O (Orange) - Ignition O/W (Orange with White Tracer) - Cooling Fan O/Y (Orange with Yellow Tracer) - ECU R (Red) - Power (+12v) ------------------------------------------------------------------------ Removal: The first step is to remove the two wiring harnesses that will be modified: the key switch and the right clip-on switch cluster. Find and disconnect the connectors that connect these harnesses to the main wiring harness. The key switch has two connectors along the right frame spar. The right clip-on switch cluster has a connector just in front of the radiator on the right side. You will have to open some zip ties and a clamp to get the harnesses free. To remove the key switch, you will have to take off the top triple clamp and remove the two tamper resistant Torx bolts. I do not have the correct Torx bits so I drilled the heads of the bolts off. To remove the right clip-on switch cluster, you will need to disconnect the throttle cables from the cluster. ------------------------------------------------------------------------ Key Switch Harness Modification: This one is actually quite simple. Start by cutting all the wires 2" from the main connector. Cut the Br and Gr wires at the connector so they are slightly recessed since they will not be used. Cut the O/Y and B/W wires to 1" in length and solder a lead of the 100 Ohm resistor to each wire. Insulate the wires and resistor with Electrical tape to keep the O/Y and B/W wires and resistor leads from touching. Leave the R and O wires at 2" for now. ------------------------------------------------------------------------ Right Clip-on Switch Cluster Harness Modification: The goal here is to re-wire this harness so the circuit the kill switch normally controls is always connected (run) and to have two wires coming out of the harness connected to the kill switch. In the run position, the kill switch completes a circuit between the O/B and O/W wires. The O/W wire actually connects to the starter button and the kill switch. A "Y" is formed about 4 inches down the wiring harness from the switch. Cut into the sheath and find where the O/W wire forms the "Y" and cut the O/W wire that leads to the kill switch. Cut the O/B wire at the same point in the harness and solder it to the O/W running to the Starter Switch. Run a pair of wires through the sheath and connect them to the O/W and and O/B wires from the kill switch. Leave about 3" of wire hanging out from the sheath at the connector end. Use electrical tape to insulate all of the connections and to cover the cut in the sheath. ------------------------------------------------------------------------ Putting it All Together: Take the key switch harness and right clip-on switch cluster harness connectors and plug them into the corresponding connectors on the main wiring harness. Look at the R and O wires coming from the key switch harness and the two unconnected wires coming from the right clip-on switch cluster harness. If needed, cut the appropriate amount of wire from the right clip-on switch cluster harness to allow for an uncluttered connection. Unplug the key switch harness and right clip-on switch cluster harness connectors. Connect the R wire from the key switch harness to an unconnected wire from the right clip-on switch cluster harness. Connect the O wire from the key switch harness to the other unconnected wire from the right clip-on switch cluster harness. Use electrical tape to insulate all of the connections. Put the kill switch in the "stop" position and plug the connectors in again. Put the kill switch in the "run" position. The bike should power on and be ready to start. Try starting the bike. If it starts, you are just about done. ------------------------------------------------------------------------ Finishing Up: Reinstall the right clip-on switch cluster and clean up the wiring harness connections. That's it...... __________________
Quote(There is one more thing you have to do in order to get the fuel pump to work which is different from the 15 threads regarding keyless GSXR's. ) Oh,sorry. my bad . This may not work.
I found this over on the GSXR forums, it works for the newer ones. Works on a 2007 GSX-R750 Start by getting the ignition and right side controls unpluged. On the ignition plug you will have a red, Orange, Orange w/ yellow tracer, brown, and a grey wire. Now I can't remember all the colors on the right side controls plug, but the only ones that you will be using is orange w/ black tracer (O/B) and orange w/ white tracer (O/W). After they are unplugged, cut the the ignition harness about 4-5" from the plug. Then cut back the loom on the RS controls harness, find the O/B and O/W wires and cut them about 3" from the plug. Ok connect Red wire from ignition to O/B of right side controls harness. Then connect Orange from ignition to O/W from right side controls. Then connect one side of the 100 ohm resistor to the Orange and O/W connection. Then you have to connect the other half of the O/W back with the the O, O/W, and the resistor connection. If you don't the fuel pump won't kick on!! Then connect the O/Y from the ignition to the other side of the resistor. The grey and brown wires in the ignition harness are for tail lights/parking lights and front brake switch. I just eliminated them, but you can do as you please. Hope this helps someone. I couldn't get any help from KWS or Marietta, but I don't blame them. They had good reasons for not helping. I just used a wiring schematic, and took the switch apart and studied it.
What about the O/B wire? What about the O/B wire from the bike on the right side harness? The red wire from the key goes to the switch side of the O/B, no mention of of the bike side of the O/B.
Out of curiosity, what is the reasoning behind removing the ignition and installing a keyless one. Thanks.
Never having to worry about forgetting/losing your key. Simplifying the wiring. Weight loss. Not much weight there, but it all adds up if you put the bike through the overall weight loss program.
For those of your running the 06 - 07 600 750 aka k6 k7: I wanted to update the instructions on how to bypass the ignition and run your bike via the engine run/stop rocker switch. The ignition switch harness has a red line (+12v) which actually branches out from a crimp to (2x red and 1x black/yellow line). These 3 lines all supply +12v. 1x will be used for power to the engine run/stop stwitch and 1x will be used to supply power to the ECU via the Orange/Yellow and 1x will not be used for this application (note can be used for other things). Immobilizer defeat: solder 100 ohm reistor inline between B/Y and O/Y. that's it done! Engine run/stop switch: Connect R line from Key Harness to O/B Engine run/stop switch side. Connect O line from Key Harness to O/W Right hand control (tip: to minimize points of failure, I uncrimped the Y junction of the O/W, got a new crimp and crimped together the O and O/W connections) Note: the immobilizer on the stock gsxr harness is simply a fuel cut off. The ecu simply looks for a lower voltage being returned via +12v. With the resistor in place, the ECU sees a lower voltage and will turn the fuel pump on.
as for my above statement from what ive read, the 08 is the same. anyway, i could rebuild a motor with my eyes closed, but im not the best with electical stuff. the difference between what is shown above and what i want is that i want to move the ignition on/off control from the key/ignition to an on/off switch on the left clip on instead of routing it to the kill switch(if you search "k&s atv on/off", it will come up so you can see what i am using. btw there are 2 cables coming out of the on/off switch.) can someone give me some advice on how to do this??? :cheers thanks, brandon
There is a very detailed thread here in the Tech section with lots of pictures- I used it 2 years ago when I yanked the ignition on my 750 and went keyless.
Hello all! I am new to this forum, I have a 07 Gsxr 750 engine that I will be installing in my lifted golf cart. I have everything but the ignition switch I'll be trying this mod while it is still bolted to the crate so I can hear it run. I appriciate all the hard work and knowledge you guys put into your bikes so you can share with people like me that know little to nothing regarding bikes. I'm sure I'll have questions so please be patiant with me
