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Looking for Ducati 996 Race Parts

Discussion in 'WERA Vintage' started by ScottyRock155, Jun 7, 2024.

  1. ScottyRock155

    ScottyRock155 A T-Rex going RAWR!

    Just bought a project 996 and am going to build it into a nice V7 racer, just looking to see what all is available for race parts on the used market before I go buy new stuff.

    Bodywork, rearsets, subframe, full exhaust, any and all cool race parts.

    Thanks!

    Scott
     
    Wingnut likes this.
  2. TLR67

    TLR67 Well-Known Member

    Hell to the Yeah! Need more in V7
     
  3. nlzmo400r

    nlzmo400r Well-Known Member

    If you're looking for actual vintage race parts, be prepared for eye watering prices now. For chassis setup here's the stuff you should be chasing:

    Ride height tool - get one to accurately measure the rear rideheight and therefore swginarm angle while moving the rear hub through it's adjustment when you changing final drive gearing.

    Rearsets - the 'corse' style rearsets you see are fine and cheap, but don't offer quick shifter ability because they just use a lever on the shift mechanism. If you want a quick shifter you need a linkage setup or a fancy strain gauge type shifter that comes on the hinged shifter piece.

    The best thing you can do for a 996 chassis wise is to reduce the triple clamp offset, but they're not necessary by any stretch. If you're keeping the stock setup, run the steering stem in the 'road' position. It makes the bike a little longer and doesn't allow good front tire loading, but gives sufficient trail and great stability. If you run the 'race' position on headstock angle, you'll end up quite low on trail unless you change the triples.

    You're probably going to want to run a 2 link longer than stock chain and move that rear axle as far as back as possible to increase front weight bias. I found this to get me very near the results of the 'corse long magnesium swingarm' setup I eventually went to.

    The whole 'race shock and linear linkage' thing.. Eh, a well setup stock type setup is perfectly sufficient if not as sexy.

    Forks, same deal. Fancy ohlins stuff is great, but a well setup stock showa fork with better valving is great enough considering the cost difference.

    Exhaust - there's still some full systems floating around. Luckily a lot of dudes back in the day bought pipes for these things so the supply is still out there. That being said, unless you're building an engine or want every last hp, slip ons or cored stock mufflers are fine.

    Wheels - if your 996 still has the 5spoke marchesinis, you're done there. Lighter Mg wheels or old 16.5s are dope, but again, chasing tenths. The stock 916 style 3 spoke wheels are incredibly heavy (and sought after). My recommendation would be to bubble wrap those and find 5spokes if you don't already have some. Tip - the Monster S2r/MTS1000 rear 5spoke is the same. The fronts are different brake disc bolting if I recall.

    If you have any nerdy questions, holler.
     
    Wingnut and yamageezer like this.
  4. ScottyRock155

    ScottyRock155 A T-Rex going RAWR!

    Is that all? :crackup:

    That's awesome man, thank you for the starting info.

    It does have the 5 spokes, so not changing those. It has what I believe is a half system, stock header but 45-50mm midpipe with 50mm Termi. They are the racier version with no provision for baffles so my plan is to run that. Will get the Ohlins shock and Showa forks set up for now.

    My main nerdy question for now is tuning. With the 1.6 ECU is there a way to tune without a power commander or do you have to find different chips for every option?
     
  5. Wingnut

    Wingnut Well-Known Member

    I have 2 sets of Sharkskinz race bodywork and ram air tubes plus a pair of new guage/fairing brackets.

    PM your cell and I'll text pictures
     
  6. Wingnut

    Wingnut Well-Known Member

    Oh and I have a Yoshimura Carbon set of pipes..
     
  7. nlzmo400r

    nlzmo400r Well-Known Member

    The 996 doesn’t have any oxygen sensor or provisions for a closed
    Loop fueling table. Basically, whatever the EPROM chip says to do based on throttle position and RPM, the fuel injectors do.

    This is limiting but it does mean a power commander can basically change the entire map across all throttle ranges without being ‘fought’ by the oxygen sensor as on more modern bikes.

    Basically a tuned eprom isn’t totally necessary, but will generally get you closer to the ideal fueling that you can then dial in with a power commander.
     
  8. ScottyRock155

    ScottyRock155 A T-Rex going RAWR!

    PM Sent


    Ok, that matches up with what I've learned. Sounds like PC5 has some benefits over the newer PC6 as well. Thanks for the info.
     
  9. dukatikid

    dukatikid Member

    If you’re still looking for parts I have a mate in Sydney,Australia with a full 50mm Termi system for sale?
    He’s not a member here but I can get him to join and flick you a message.
     
  10. Richard McGlinchey

    Richard McGlinchey New Member

    Hi Scotty,
    I’m
    Im Sydney. I’ve got a termi full 50mm exhaust for sale .
    Hard to find . Ceramic costed header . Carbon cans . And Ive got a spare set of 6mm genuine RS discs for sale
    Here’s my number . Give me a call. 0415759895
    Cheers
    Ricky
     
  11. Richard McGlinchey

    Richard McGlinchey New Member

    Hi Scotty , I posted before .
    I’ve got a full 50mm termi for sale , a set of 996 RS discs for sale and a power commander 3
     
  12. Richard McGlinchey

    Richard McGlinchey New Member

    Hi , nice bit of info on the 996 set up ,
    I’m building 1 for racing also. So you say to decrease the fork offset. So
    That will increase the trail figures.
    So you want more trail on these ? And not less?
    What offset seems to work best ? And if you adjust the headstock to the race configuration. To twitchy?
    Cheers mate
    Ricky
     
  13. nlzmo400r

    nlzmo400r Well-Known Member

    Less offset on the triple trees creates more ground trail. Generally 97-102mm or so is what racers end up at with sportbikes of this era.
    The stock 24.5* 'road position' of the steering stem results in about 97-98mm of trail depending on the rear ride height and tires. To tuck the front tire under the frame more for better feel and more forward weight bias, people turn the steering headstock eccentric to the 23.5* setting, but this will cost you about 6mm of trail. In order to gain this trail back, the right way to do it is replacing the triple clamps with lower offset units. Stock offset is 36mm, so something in the 26-30mm area would get you back into the 'sweet spot'.

    There's no 'best' offset, it's rider dependent. I've played around with 28-30mm offsets and didn't notice much difference between the two. But each felt considerably more sure footed than the 36mm standard unit.

    If you choose to run the race position headstock with stock triple clamps, the bike doesn't become twitchy, but it does require more bar input to keep it leaned over and tracking on a line. It creates the feeling that the bike is understeering or 'pushing' the front tire more. Definitely not the end of the world, nothing to be scared of, but a steeper headstock angle with lower offset triples really results in a good feeling bike assuming you've got the wheelbase/swingarm angle in teh ballpark.
     
  14. onesixsix

    onesixsix Member

    Congrats on the purchase. nlzmo400r nailed most of it.

    What I can share from my experience is that running the bike with stock geometry is fine and like was mentioned, I would not run the steeper steering angle w/ out the triple. Also, I ended up raising the front end as these bike can have front wheel clearance issues under hard braking. Also, I was happy with the stock rear Showa shock and fork that I had revalved and resprung by Ohlins in conjunction with an Ohlins cartridge kit.

    Additionally, I'd also suggest a slipper clutch (the yoyodyne on my 996 has been awesome) and if you need new parts HSBK actually have a lot of compatible parts in stock. I've had good luck with the stock braking system from a performance stand point, but had to replace the lines due to age.

    And, I'd suggest finding a spare tank as they get a beating when these bikes fall down and the tanks were hard to find years ago so might be good to have one on the shelf before you go racing.

    Also, I have a set of painted bodywork for sale (side fairings, front fairings, seat w/ OEM seat pad, belly pan, and double bubble screen) and some odds and ends (e.g., ohlins rear spring, clutch pack, etc.) Lemme know if you're interested.

    Looking forward to seeing some pictures and good luck with the project. These are wonderful bikes and are a joy on track.

    PS: I'd suggest picking up a copy of the Desmo Times service manual: https://desmotimes.com/product/2-desmoquattro-maintenance-and-modification-manual/
     
    Last edited: Jul 8, 2024
    nlzmo400r likes this.
  15. nlzmo400r

    nlzmo400r Well-Known Member

    Chris Boy @ motorcorse is also an awesome resource. Both in knowledge and in old RS parts
     
  16. TLR67

    TLR67 Well-Known Member

    Scotty’s gonna be Broke!
     
  17. Hyperdyne

    Hyperdyne Indy United SBK

    Matt Carr still has quite a collection last time I checked. Give him a shout.
     
  18. ScottyRock155

    ScottyRock155 A T-Rex going RAWR!

    You act like I would buy a 996 and not talk to Matt. :rolleyes:

    :D
     
  19. Hyperdyne

    Hyperdyne Indy United SBK

    Hey I'm just out here tryin ta help a brotha out!
     

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