I've read about as much as I can and everyone has different opinions so here's the deal... I'm looking to install a humidifier and initially am leaning towards a powered unit, the new AprilAire 720. House is 3k sf, spray foam insulation, tight. The issue is I'm skinny on space on the supply side - as just above the coil housing is a short plenum into my zone distribution. I have space on the Acoil housing - see picture below, and also picture from AprilAire which looks similar for install. Again, tons of yes you can do that and no you cant out there. I also have all the space in the world on the return side and could in theory run a bypass style system as well. So: can I / Should I run the powered unit on the Acoil housing? Drains right there, easy access ect. Or pivot to something else?
I don't see an issue placing it where you show in the picture. It will come with a template to cut the hole in the duct, and if it's anything like the Honeywell unit I have on my home, it only enters the duct be about an inch. Make sure you change the pads or they will mold/mildew and be pushing a smell and contaminants into your supply duct.
I'm in the same boat, zero room for one on the supply side. Google-Fu shows a 50/50 toss up on the location. Many say the return side is better, in the event the humidifier fails, it won't flood the furnace? Hard to tell what to believe and what not to believe. I was also looking at the 720 as well. Are you planning to use your thermostat to control it? I'd have to upgrade my EcoBee if I wanted to do so, which I think I'd want to do. More work up front, for less hassle later on.
Not sure what I'll have control it, have not made it that far. I have Ecobees as well which I thought can run it (I'll have to check the version) but I may just get it that comes with manual thermostat and set it and forget it.
There's nothing wrong with cutting it into the coil housing, but that looks like a Carrier/Bryant product, which means the coil is most likely an N coil. If you pull the door off you'll be able to see what I mean. I don't remember which side the last pass of the coil is, but if it's on the right you'll have a problem. It's hard to explain but the coil looks like: /\/ the / on the far right is attached to the inside of the coil enclosure.
Your other option is steam. They're easier to mount because you only need one small hole for the steam port. The old ones sucked but the new Aprilaire product has been great so far. I've had one for three years and would never go back.
Don't most of those require 220v and use a lot of juice? I don't know, I'm just going off shit I've read on the internet but I'm looking at that option as well. Not sure what route to take at this point, all I know is that I'm tired of sending lightning bolts out of my finger tips every time I pet my dog on the couch.
Its a Bryant from 2018. I inspected the coil a year or two back and think it was an A but I'll have to check again to make sure. The good news is if it is an N, I have room on the opposite side as well if need be for the clearance to coil. Steam sounds good but honestly don't feel like plunking down the coin on them. I hear they are maintenance hogs as well but that could be bullshit.
They used to be. The new Aprilaire just has a canister you replace every year. Less hassle than pads. They are spendy though. They'll run on 110 but 220 is preferred. They definitely use more energy but run less. I'm sure there's a cost, but I didn't notice it on my bill. Water isn't cheap anymore either and they use less of that.
Fair point. My HVAC is pretty close to the breaker box, and wouldn't be *t00* terrible to run a dedicated 220 line, but would just be more of a pain in the ass. I do already have a 120 outlet wired in the HVAC closet, so my laziness has an influence... For what it's worth, I saw on Amazon that there's a $100 rebate for the newer Ecobee's for Maryland residents. The Ecobee Premium (aka Ecobee 4) is $250, but was on sale for $225, and with the $100 credit from BG&E (electric company), essentially takes the cost to $125. So I just bought it. I've decided to go the whole-house route, and my current, older Ecobee 3 Lite cannot control HVAC accessories like the humidifier. Whichever route I go (Aprilaire 700/720 or steam), I want it to run any time the fan is running. Some googling has shown some guys didn't notice a huge humidity increase when it ran only when the furnace was running. I already have a water line ran to the HVAC closet as well, so I'm *hoping* the most difficult part of the install is the wiring. Not too concerned with the actual physical installation part, that'll be pretty cut and dry. I'm just stuck like the OP mounting it on the return side and not the supply, as there's literally no room on the supply side.
They say you can mount on the return but need to pipe it to hot water. Will work just fine but not as efficient as it will be on the supply side. Again its like 50/50 some guys are like "supply only" "return only so you don't flood your furnace blah blah blah"
True, but a counter to the counter point that I read and made a lot of sense - Isn't it situationally dependent? For example, my water heater is rather far away, at the other side of the house. Given the average water use, say 0.7 gallon an hour, how much of the heat from the hot water is lost in the piping? None of that piping (PEX, in my situation) isn't wrapped/insulated. There's easily 60-75 linear feet of PEX to the HVAC for me. With such little use of water per hour, how hot would that "hot" water even be by the time it reaches the humidifier?
IF you go steam, please read all of the aprilaire instructions for install. they absolutely matter. i just fixed a very poorly installed aprilaire 800 series steam setup for a customer. there are specific fittings you need to buy from april aire (clearly called out in the manual) for proper function. the previous install was dumping hot steam condensation directly into a pvc drain pipe, which over time melted it to the point it sagged and cracked and the homeowner had water in the attic destroying the ceiling.
To the point John- best idea is the Tstat that can control humidity/ humidifier with fan speed. If you have a VS blower. You can raise humidity in the winter and lower humidity in the summer. It’s a great comfort option. Note- if you have a variable speed fan unit—-you can DROP humidity in the summer… The fan speed will slow down and just use the coil for condensation to remove humidity even when the outdoor compressor is not running … single stage systems turn off the fan when the outdoor unit turns off so the coil sits cold and does not remove humidity when fan is not running. As far as installations I have always heard that it’s best to put the humidifier on the return side and do a bypass. This keeps the moisture off of the coil, which overtime already builds up mold from just condensation in the summertime. ADDITIONALLY, A UV LIGHT ABOVE THE A COIL IS A GREAT THING TO ELIMINATE MOLD. IT ALSO SCRUBS THE AIR. just my 2¢
Damian I'm alittle confused with the bypass comment. I've done entirely too much googling. The previous owner had a bypass humidifier installed, but it's since been removed with sheet metal covering it with the foil tape and such. The humidifier was installed on the return side, with the bypass duct going to the supply side. Even I can understand the air from the supply side pushes air over the humidifier...but at that point, isn't that already blowing said moisture over the coil anyways? Again, there is quite literally zero room to install a humidifier on the supply side...unless they made one about the size of a cell phone. Also, I'm not quite sure what the difference between the bypass and fan powered one would be for my case. It's looking like I don't even need a fan powered unit if I intend to have the Ecobee run the humidifier whenever the HVAC fan is running - correct? Otherwise I'm not seeing what advantage the fan powered setup has, as I doubt that little fan on the unit could push any significant air throughout the duct work of the house?
