1. This site uses cookies. By continuing to use this site, you are agreeing to our use of cookies. Learn More.

For the electronic gurus circuit board repair

Discussion in 'General' started by notbostrom, Dec 1, 2025 at 6:25 PM.

  1. notbostrom

    notbostrom DaveK broke the interwebs

    Not sure a replacement is available so hoping I can repair. Can anyone identify the component that appears burnt?
     

    Attached Files:

  2. GRH

    GRH Well-Known Member

    Capacitor
     
  3. Venom51

    Venom51 John Deere Equipment Expert - Not really

  4. notbostrom

    notbostrom DaveK broke the interwebs

  5. Venom51

    Venom51 John Deere Equipment Expert - Not really

  6. DesertCrawler

    DesertCrawler Old and Slow

    Pretty sure you'll find that is a 1uF ceramic capacitor, also coded as 105. Hard to tell for sure what series based on scale, but you can measure it physically to determine the replacement. Likely 0603 or 0805 Imperial size. The imperial size is the dimension in thousands of an inch times 10. 0603 is 0.06" x 0.03", 0805 is 0.08" x 0.05".

    Voltage rating will matter. If it is a 12VDC circuit a 50V cap will be fine. 16V would be fine for 5VDC.

    Hope that helps.
     
    Dragginass, Razr and bergs like this.
  7. notbostrom

    notbostrom DaveK broke the interwebs

    It's 12v and actually the brake light for a scooter. Of the 6 LEDs the 3 on the end don't light. Given the scortch marks I assume that component is bad and causing the issue
     
  8. bergs

    bergs Well-Known Member

    There's damage to the pad and at least some of the trace. You may have trouble simply trying to solder to the burnt pad and even if that does work out, there may be some high resistance to where things might burn up again. Not trying to be Captain Bummer, just want you to be prepared for those possibilities.

    For component size, I suspect 1206 is the answer
     
    notbostrom likes this.
  9. SundaySocial

    SundaySocial Walking the dog

    I can read the numbers, but not the writing … ! lol!

    You can get the replacement from DigiKey, Newark or Mouser (electronic parts suppliers)
     
  10. notbostrom

    notbostrom DaveK broke the interwebs

    Hope so because the board is a bit toasty
     
  11. ChemGuy

    ChemGuy Harden The F%@# Up!

    I would get a 1M ohm 1/4watt resistor and get to work. I cant imagine that those LEDs would come close to overpowering a 1/4 watt SMD.

    If you use some flux or low temp solder then desoldering is easier.
     
  12. bergs

    bergs Well-Known Member

    The component in question is not a resistor. It's a capacitor.


    Post 6 from @DesertCrawler covers pretty much everything.

    @notbostrom - If you felt like shipping up the east coast I can probably have that pad and trace repaired as well as install the component, if one is provided.
     
    notbostrom likes this.
  13. SundaySocial

    SundaySocial Walking the dog

    It seems like it was repaired previously (at the factory?) and they did not get the flux cleaned off.
    The corrosion is the result, and probably the fault.
    Ensure that the flux is completely cleaned off, post soldering.
    Reflow of the solder may fix it.
     
  14. 05Yamabomber

    05Yamabomber Dammit Haga

    There is a fuse up at the top. I would measure that also. The pad does look burned. Hard to tell if the capacitor is blown or just not cleaned after solder.
     
  15. DesertCrawler

    DesertCrawler Old and Slow

    +1 on checking the fuse. The power leads in the middle of the board look suspect. I'd likely fix the lead dress on them and reflow those too.

    Replacing the cap may get the circuit working again, but one has to wonder what caused the failure and what else went out as a result. Could be a bad component or some other one off event, definitely happens, but may be prudent to eliminate systemic issues before gambling with the bad luck option. On the other hand, it is likely not a critical system so...may not matter much. Sometimes the fix is just throw parts at it until it works.
     
  16. notbostrom

    notbostrom DaveK broke the interwebs

    Looks like only 1 fuse but half the lights work?
     
  17. 05Yamabomber

    05Yamabomber Dammit Haga

    Its been many years since I worked with PCB surface mount but you should be able to ohm out the F1 on both sides and see if its open or not. Your hand is covering up the bottom portion so cant see what else is down there.

    As others have said buy some liquid flux on amazon. Even the solder irons are cheap on there for a decent one. Reflow everything with flux. You will get cold solder joints and create more problems if you try to use iron without flux.
     
  18. In Your Corner

    In Your Corner Dungeonesque Crab AI Version

    That's a thingamajig.
    Or a whoosamadingy, one or the other.
    Perhaps a watchamacallit.
    Just use some JB Weld on it, that shit fixes errythang.
    Maybe add some duct tape too, just to be safe.
     
  19. In Your Corner

    In Your Corner Dungeonesque Crab AI Version

    Don't listen to this guy, he obviously knows nothing
    about this subject. If you have something against
    JB Weld, just use Crazy Glue and some string. Whack
    it with a sledgehammer if necessary.
     
    notbostrom likes this.
  20. In Your Corner

    In Your Corner Dungeonesque Crab AI Version

    It's 12v and actually the brake light for a scooter. Of the 6 LEDs the 3 on the end don't light. Given the scortch marks I assume that component is bad and causing the issue

    Can't you just find a suitable replacement light?
    Seems like a better idea than wasting all that JB Weld and duct tape.
     

Share This Page