Can I just eliminate the switch and tie the two wires together? Previous owner locked the tiny screw that holds the switch to the perch and it snapped off. I don’t want to replace the whole assembly for the stupid switch. Thanks, Chris
You sure could. If it were me, I'd make a small jumper between the wires instead of cutting them though. I'm confident enough that the clutch switch is only used for starting, but it would be nice to maintain the ability to install a switch again one day if you decide you miss that safety feature.
If it is a stock ECU you will lose about 400 rpms at the top due to neutral redline vs in gear redline and some of the fuel/timing maps are different as you will be running on the neutral map vs the gear 1-6 map. I don't have my laptop in front of me but there are also secondary throttle plate maps that are different per gear and you would no longer be using those. So while you can, you really shouldn't.
I thought I had heard that before. No reason I couldn’t run it through an aftermarket switch. Anyone know if it’s normally closed or open when clutch lever is out offhand? Not at my shop to test and my factory switch is not working anyway.
If it's similar to an SV there is a way to remove the switch and retain full power. It involves cutting a wire coming out of the ECU and then grounding another one.
Here's how you do it on an SV. Probably the same, but get a wiring diagram to make sure. https://lwtracer.com/lwt-racing-bikes/sv650/workshop-sv650-race-wire-harness-2nd-gen-03-06/
