Aprilia RS660 Tech Discussion

Interesting. I thought t he Dunlop was a 180/6o. I asked my vendor about the sizes and he said you could fit the 190 but most people with the Aprilia were running the 180. I guess we’ll give it a go and see how it feels.

 

The MA slicks are either a 180/60 for a 5.50, 200/55 or a 200/60 for a 6.0-6.25 rim. Current WSBK 190/60 slicks are for a 5.50 rim. Or in some compounds you can get the older 180/60 tires and those are too for 5.50 rims. Or if you have limited clearance and are really old school there's a 180/55 in 2 compounds for a 5.50 rim too. Options are out there from some of the tire companies and the good ones offer fitment data on their websites

 

I am not sure if this has already been discussed...

Has anyone swapped or thought about swapping to RSV4 forks? I know many people running the R7 have swapped to R1/R6 to go from 41mm internal diameter to 43mm. It be the same for RS660 forks to RSV4 forks.

 

Robem was thinking about it for endurance. Not legal for MA because the RSV4 is not homologated yet.

 

Anyone running a DBholders upper fairing stay?

I have one and the fitment is really bad. The aluminum stay is good, it's mainly the intake duct. I had to dremel the piss out of it and it's still not fitting too well. Anyone else have issues with the DBholder intake duct?

 

Yes - exact same issues

 

Figures. Never used DBholders before. Is this standard for them, or is their mold messed up for the 660?

Any other air intake options that isn't stupid expensive?

Also how are you guys mounting the Intake air temp sensor? I just have mine ziptied to the wire bundle right now. Wondering if I should drill some holes in the intake and ziptie it to that.

On another note what is the best way to remove the speed sensor on the front fork leg?

 

Haven't had any issues with other DBHolder products (stays/subframes for other bikes).
My sensor is just ziptied and is within the airduct...which probably pretty much kills the utility of said air duct.
Removing sensor...brute force and hope don't f it up....that being said, I'm sure someone else has figured a better way...

 

Cool thanks!!

I asked this on the aprilia forum, but wondering what you guys do.

Do you guys keep the radiator fan or not?

 

I've been told to keep the fan

 

I’ve kept my fan at the recommendation of a few folks. I was also advised to remove the thermostat but I haven’t done that yet. I did boil over at NJ with just Race ECU and exhaust making 90hp at the wheel. I ran some lighter viscosity oil at that race and wonder if that hurt the heat rejection a little. If I tune it a little leaner to find a hp or two, I would be thinking about better cooling.

 

Great, thanks guys.

 

It boiled over on track at speed? Or idling on the line or in the pits without a fan?

 

Mine was fine on track, but idling into parc ferme and the my Motion Pro overflow bottle overflowed. The simple answer may be a slightly larger overflow or maybe I had too much water for higher temps. I never checked the data afterwards now that I think about it. I’ll have to check the Solo2DL and see what the water temp was.

 

I’m leaving the fan on mine. It hasn’t boiled over yet, but I got the flashing overheating alarm on mine at Chuckwalla last September while hauling ass on track, and mine has a jet prime high volume water pump and a high pressure cap on it. Chuckwalla is still pretty warm in September but I was surprised to see it getting that hot on track.
I intended to install an aftermarket gage so I could see the actual temp instead of just the little graph gage on the dash, but haven’t yet so I really don’t know exactly how hot it was

 

The SOLO2DL can connect to the CANBUS and read water temp and you get other fun data about how slow or fast you are too! You can also have the SOLO2DL display any of that data in real time if you want in addition to lap times.

 

Thanks, are they bike specific or can I use one on my aprilia and also my r6?
I e seen guys with them but never really looked into it so sorry if that’s a dumb question

 

No sweat. You can use the same SOLO2DL on different bikes. You just need the bike specific cable to connect to the CANBUS (they have one that is plug and play for the RS660, I assume for the R6 too but I haven't had experience with that bike), and then when you swap it between bikes, you use the AIM software to upload the configuration for whichever bike it's installed on. They have standard software configurations for all sorts of bikes. It would probably take me 5 minutes to open my laptop, connect to the SOLO2DL via it's own wi-fi network, and then upload a new config file. It would probably take 10 minutes for me to teach someone how to do that. Good luck whichever way you go!

 

So I pulled my oil pan to check the Oil Pressure Relief Valve. 7000 miles and tight as could be. I was already there so I decided to safety wire it. But now worried. Does the black bolt head part of the valve raise up to release pressure? Or does it move down? Or does it not move at all?

Can someone explain how the valve works? I am worried it will raise up and hit the safety wire. Thanks!

 

Maybe I missed the reasoning prior to you taking it apart, but what problems were you experiencing?

The relief valve should have no external moving parts. It is a simple sprung closed valve that once oil pressure exceeds the force of the spring, the valve is forced open and bleeds down pressure. The piece that you safety wired shouldn't move at all unless my eyes deceive me. The black part with the hex head would be the piece you wouldn't want coming loose. I'm not familiar with the 660, so perhaps the black hex part and the silver piece you wired through are joined together? If so, you're done.

If they're separate parts, lockwire the flats of the bolt head, not the silver piece.