Aprilia RS660 Tech Discussion

Is anyone having any luck using the clutch less down shifting (auto blip) feature on the RS660? My bike is on the stock ECU with the Gabro up map. The guy who built my bike (he has 2 seasons in the AMA Twins cup - so he would know) said it's more trouble than it's worth. After racing at The Ridge this past weekend, it would sure be nice to use this feature. Any thoughts?

 

I’ve done a lot of laps on a stock 660 with slicks around COTA.
The blipper is ok for the first shift but if you do multiple back shifts it falls on its face pretty quickly. You don’t even have to be going that fast for it to be unhappy.


I use the quick shifter, but at this point I clutch all my back shifts.

 

Pretty much this. The blipper works great, but the trouble is that the stock electronics want a moment between blips. It works great for the first, okay for the second, then falls on its face for the third. On a flowing track like Barber, it would be perfect. Turn one at Daytona, 6th all the way to 1st, you'd never make the corner because you'd be fighting it to get down.

 

I’ve had really good experience with the autoblipper working for me even for multiple downshifts.

Two things, I run regular shifting so my downshifts are likely more decisive and stronger than when you run GP shift. And secondly, perhaps I naturally space my downshifts out as I come down in speed. I could see an issue if I waited to bang 2-3 downshifts right away at the end of the braking zone. Maybe if I was faster it would become more of an issue…

I have the Aprilia Race ECU as provided by HSBK a few years back.

 

I'm frequently in the top 10 in MA Twins Cup on my RS660, and I don't use the autoblipper. I stopped using it about 18 months ago, after learning that the top guys usually don't use it.

I feel like the blip from the engine is good, but the stock slipper doesn't limit the reverse torque enough. So after the initial blip, the engine drags too much and can load the front tire more than I'd prefer. I feel like when I use the clutch, even after letting the lever out, the stock slipper does a good job. But it needs a little help from the clutch to get it slipping.

I think if I installed an aftermarket slipper, I'd probably try the autoblip again.

 

I can tell you with the MKE 5 and a Suter, it's worlds better...

 

Did you do both at the same time, or could you give some feedback about the experience with just the ECU or clutch solution?

 

I am not currently able to find Motul 300V 10W50. Is it a bad idea to go to the readily available 15W50?

 

I would go to a different manufacturer before I switched weights.

redline makes a 10w-50 which has similar levels of ZDDP to 300v, it would be a good alternative.

 

Agreed. I ran lighter oil in mine once to search for more powah, and all I found was more engine temp which caused the ECU to dial back the timing causing me to lose power… maybe with an aux cooler the 5w40 could work, but not with stock rad.

 

Thanks for insight on auto blip feature. I ended up using it where only one downshift was needed. It worked about 97% of the time, when not, I'm willing to bet it was because the throttle was not all the way shut - my fault. Now if I can only learn to launch the thing...

 

Tackled my own head gasket, (with only 15 messages to @regularguy) Pretty simple overall, I had to borrow a spring compressor to get the valves out and getting the cams back on was a bit of a pain, you just have to be patient and go slowly. It survived the first startup so that's a good sign. to

 

Does anyone know how to clear an "ATC Disabled" alarm on the RS660 dash? I had it go off in while on the track and in made my quick shifter go haywire initially, but I was able to get it back after shutting the bike down and re-training it as per normal. I keep my dash on the CHALLENGE screen and my ATC is off. Now I can't seem to make the big red alarm stripe go away. The bike still runs normal and I was able to do 6 sprint races without incident. ????

 

Is it saying "ATC disabled" because you have ATC turned off?

 

I've been running with traction control off pretty much from the get go with this bike. No alarms or problems until this past weekend.

 

Check your speed sensor gap and adjust to 1mm.

are you running the race ecu?

There’s no detriment to running with the red flashing lights. I’ve never done the calibration after I was advised by Matt at Robem not to bother, it will just keep happening. Mine only goes off occasionally.

are you using the autoblip?

 

Stock ECU, with the Gabro UP Map. Using autoblip sometimes - just for sections of the track where I need only one downshift. I'll check the wheel sensor gap. Thanks for the info.

 

I chased what I assume is the same issue. Wheel sensor gap didn't fix for me. Check the on board lap timer. If max lean angle is displaying -179 degrees, the IMU may be going nuts from vibration. I bought the gabro isolator and the problem disappeared.

https://cbcmoto.com/products/gabro-...Q_eThhf1U6mlZBxXZuF4aZBSWRV5I0bClI11SlXzolp3H

 

Looking in to this... Very cool.

 

What led to head gasket replacement? I have some oil drops in my water, but bike runs great. Troubleshooting. I don’t run a thermostat, stock water pump, stock radiator.